Travels in Laos and Isaan

Daeng Namnueng - best Vietnamese kitchen in Nong Khai

2011-12-08T10:35:00.004+07:00

In my opinion still the best Vietnamese restaurant in Nong Khai - Deang Namnueng. The restaurant offers authentic Vietnamese cuisine. The menu features many different dishes, ranging from Vietnamese fresh and fried spring rolls, sausages, grilled dishes, noodles and rice dishes.

The restaurant is located directly on the Mekong River banks. While enjoy the lovely food, overlooking the Mekong River, you can glimpse into Laos. A truly multicultural experince.

Address: 526-527 Moo 4, Rim Khong Rd., Nai Mueang, Muang Nong Khai, Nong Khai 43000 Thailand

Ongoing dispute, but Ta Muen Thom temple is open again

2011-06-23T15:51:00.001+07:00

Ta Muen Thom temple in Surin is open again for visitors. Although the border and temple dispute between Thailand and Cambodia is still ongoing, it has been calm for almost two months and there has been no violence. The temple can be visited between 9am and 3pm daily.

The border dispute between the two neighboring countries is now staged at the International Court of Justice and the UNESCO. Thailand wants to solve the dispute by diplomatic efforts.

The first group of domestic visitors has return to the temple ruins. Visitors intending to visit the temple area have to inform the Thai military in advance of their visit in their own interest.

The Thai army removed earlier erected fences who blocked access to the temple form the Cambodian side - an act which will certainly help to relieve tensions along the border.

An earlier article about the border dispute can be read here.

A weekend retreat at the Nam Ngum – Nature, River, Jacuzzi and Peruvian Red wine

2011-06-18T09:57:00.000+07:00

No one would assume that only a few kilometers outside of Laos’ capital Vientiane, a beautiful countryside with forests, rivers and rich in agriculture could be enjoyed.

The Ngum River flows from the Plain of Jars in Xieng Khouang province southwards.

In Vientiane province the River streams into the Nam Ngum Dam. Nam Ngum Reservoir was the Lao PDR's first hydro power dam. The dam was financed with the assistance from ten countries, under the auspices of the United Nations. It was constructed and completed in 1971 by a Japanese firm. The dam generates most of the power used in the capital, Vientiane. The government of Lao PDR looks to hydro power development as the primary source of income for the country in the future.

Nam Ngum River continues its way to the Laotian capital and finally releases its waters into the Mekong River.

Following the high way number 10 out of Vientiane towards north, near Ban Tha Ngon a bridge crosses the Nam Ngum River. Several floating restaurants reside at the river banks below the bridge and offer their fresh fish and other Laotian specialties. One can dine and enjoy a boat ride on the same time. Some of these swimming tables are even equipped with a Karaoke sound machine much to the pleasure of its customers. Fish is just excellent here and it is a must to try one.

The area offers lots of activities. Boat rides on the Nam Ngum, small village temples can be observed, and fish farming and other agricultural activities can be seen. There is a small museum with an exhibit about Laotian dresses and costumes. The nearby Dansavanh Nam Ngum Resort, Golf & Casino offers an 18-hole course in a picturesque landscape. The casino attracts with its 60 table games - the largest amount in all of Southeast Asia - , and 150 gaming machines. The casino floor is open 24 hours a day.

Until recently there were only a few options to stay overnight and none to stay in style.
But with the new River View resort, that has now changed. The River View Resort resides only a few minutes’ drive from Tha Ngon Bridge and directly on the river banks of the picturesque Nam Num River. The resort offers two categories of room, 7 Garden rooms and 7 Riverside rooms. All rooms are fully equipped with wide screen plasma televisions, Internet, luxury bath rooms and comfortable living rooms.

The Riverside rooms allow the guests to enjoy overlooking the serene landscape of the Nam Ngum River from a private balcony. It is a true relaxation to enjoy a glass of red wine on the balcony after a bath and a relaxing treatment in the Jacuzzi. I was surprised by the quality of the wine, a Peruvian Tabernero Gran Tinto, a Merlot.

The River View Resort offers its clients a yacht, speed boats and Jet Ski rental. They also have some bicycles and ATV’s in their car park to explore the surrounding area.

By coincidence the last weekend was also Boun Ok Phansa (end of the three-month fast and retreat' of the monks), where the Lao people set their krathongs (small floating devices made from banana trunks and leaves, skillfully decorated with flowers, and equipped with candles and incense sticks) adrift in all Rivers to pay respect to the ancient (Naga) river spirits… I got a very charming and touching experience of the Nam Ngum – a great weekend retreat from the bustle of Vientiane.

Oudomxay - the heart of Northern Laos

2011-06-13T15:18:00.002+07:00

The Oudomxay province was founded in 1976, as a split off of the much larger Luang Prabang province. In 1987 Muang Xay became the capital of the province.

The first documented settlers of the province where "Khom" or people nowadays known as Khmu. In 1260, Lao Ly arrived from the Sipsongpanna "12 thousand rice fields" area in Southern China and build Ban Luang Cheng in the area of Muang Xay. Ly culture marked by a fusion of Buddhism and the old animist beliefs of the Khom grew and became influential in the region of Oudomxay. The Khmu are the largest minority in Laos (+500'000 members) and in Oudomxay they form the majority of the population with a 60-80% share.

Around 1828, Hmong tribes coming from Southern China moved into Laos and built their hamlets and settlements in Oudomxay. Hmong people count for a 15% of the total population of the province.

Other ethnic groups living in Oudomxay province are the Akha, the Phouthai (Thai Dam & Thai Khao), the Phou Noy (Phou Xang, Phou Kongsat, Phou Nhot), the Lao Houy (also „Lenten“), the Phouan, the Lue, the Yang, the Ikho and the Ho. Oudomxay is one of the most ethnic diverse provinces of Laos...

Oudomxay is very mountainous and altitudes vary between 300 and 1'800 meters above sea level. Due to these particular difficult topographic conditions in the province of Oudomxay, infrastructure projects and improvements are progressing slowely and maintenance costs are high. Road conditions are poor to bad, and sometimes in the rainy season roads are impassable.

There are still villages and small settlements in the province who do not have any access to roads, hospitals and higher education facilities.

Oudomxay province shares borders with the following Laotian provinces: Phongsali, Luang Prabang, Xayaboury, Bokeo and Luang Namtha. In the northwest is a border with Xishuangbanna, People's Republic of China.

However, Oudomxay province offers a large range of attractions. The provinces' key characteristics are its nature, its people and its diverse culture. An overview of possible tours in the area can be found on the web sites of Samlaan Cycling and the Provincial Tourism Department.

Khmu culture and lifestyle

2011-06-08T13:35:00.007+07:00

Shortly after breakfast we meet Ken of Samlaan Cycling and started with our visit of one of the oldest and largest communities and original inhabitants of Laos - the Khmu. The Khmu are an agricultural society, but also gathering, hunting, trapping and fishing are important parts of their lifestyle. Their language is also called Khmu and belongs to the Austro-Asiatic group of languages.

We departed from Muang La resort in the morning and enjoyed a pleasant transfer along the scenic Nam Pak.

Along the way we encountered rice terraces, small settlements and houses of the Khmu minority. In Ban Mai, a small Khmu hamlet, we walked through the village and interact with locals. After observing their daily life we then continued to Ban Phavie.

We trekked on a small green path along a little creek. We had the opportunity to meet farmers working in rice paddies and found some bird and fish traps.

After 1 hour and a half walk through the green forest, we arrived at the Khmu village of Ban Phavie, beautifully nestled in the end of a green valley situated at a small creek.

The local villagers prepared a traditional lunch for us: Laap Gai, some freshly collected mushrooms and vegetables and yes, of course also sticky rice. During the preparation of the meal we learned about the Khmu tradition of trapping and hunting. We observed and tested small little traps while they have been shown and explained to us.
After lunch we continued to a small clear waterfall just a little outside the village. We relaxed for a while at the cascades of the waterfall.

Then we returned to Muang La.

Zip Through the Tree Tops in Laos

2011-05-18T10:46:00.001+07:00

Khiri Travel Laos is offering two- and three-day tours to join Tree Top Explorer in Paksong, southern Laos. This is your chance to sleep in the Jungle Hotel 10 meters above the ground in a tree house. During the day, ride the zip line for an adrenalin rush. ‘Fly’ over deep ravines almost within touching distance of the roaring water and the green roof of the trees.

Guests can also trek in pristine forest and through coffee plantations. Discover the hidden world of the forest canopy from a sky-high walkway. Experience the jaw dropping – but safe – via ferrata (cliff walkway with support cables).

All this takes place in the Dong Hua Sao mountain range, one of 20 National Protected Areas in Laos. The park spans over 1,100 sq km, half of it truly mountainous with steep to very steep slopes rising to the edge of the Bolaven Plateau at an elevation of around 1,000m. Some peaks near the plateau rim rise up to almost 1,300m. The other half of the park is lowland with rolling hills and elevations from 100 to 300m.

To get a feel for the ‘deep forest’ experience that Khiri Travel Laos can arrange for your clients, visit www.treetoplaos.com.

It is calm again in Southern Isaan

2011-05-10T12:06:00.002+07:00

One has to go back in history to understand the problem along the Cambodian and Thai border. Cambodia first has been occupied by France in the past. Thailand and Cambodia use therefore different maps from the past to define their common border.
Cambodia then suffered under the tyranny of the Khmer Rouge regime, which had its final stronghold at this border...

As a legacy of the late Khmer Rouge regime, the Thai - Cambodian border area is still heavily mined. As a result the common border was never properly demarcated, although both countries worked hard to resolve this issues.

The status of disputed areas around Preah Viharn /Preah Vihear and some other temples of Khmer origin remains unresolved for the moment.

The ruling of an International court states that Preah Viharn /Preah Vihear belongs to Cambodia - a fact which Thailand has accepted.

After the latest border clashes between Thailand and Cambodia, both countries have today agreed to send Indonesian observers to the disputed area. They will monitor the border and make sure that the ceasefire between the two neighboring countries remains intact.

The Chong Jom border pass connecting the two countries has opened again and borer trade between Thai and Cambodian vendors continued as before the clashes. Vendors reopened their stalls at a local market near the border pass on the Thai side.

Living in Isaan now for many years, I am relived that this step of monitoring the border has been taken and that live continues along the border.

In fact it was always save to travel to Isaan as the disputed border areas are fare away from any tourist side in both countries (except Preah Viharn /Preah Vihear). I also strongly believe that Thailand and Cambdodia will find a solution in the not to distant future.

Isaan is a great place to travel as people are very welcoming and charming. Great National Parks, bustling cities and abundant nature and culture await you.

Nong Khai's aquarium - a closup look at the Mekong River fish

2011-04-27T15:28:00.005+07:00

The biggest aquarium in Northeastearn Thailand is located located at Khon Kaen University’s Campus in Nong Khai.

The University campus is a satellite campus of Khon Kaen University, located on the bypass road to Vientiane. If you come from Udon Thani take a left turn just before you enter Nong Khai and follow the signs "Vientiane". After few kilometers another sign board will direct you to the campus and the aquarium.

The construction of the aquarium began in 2004 in collaboration of Nong Khai Province and the University.

The idea of the aquarium is to conserve freshwater fish in the Mekong River as well as to stimulate tourism in the province - conserving Mekong's freshwater fish has become recently more urgent as Laos proceeds with the construction of its vastly critisized Xayabouri dam project.

There is a small saltwater fish selection on display, which in my opinion is not that special. However, considering the remote location from the next sea it is ok.

Indeed spectacular are the many freshwater fish species and their habitats as they could be found in the Mekong River. The displayed tanks vary in sizes and shapes. A highlight is the 25 meter tunnel tank featuring all kind of large Mekong River fish.

As a diver, I felt instantly in love with the atmosphere and the amazing blue World.

A great day excursion just a few kilometers out of down town Nong Khai...

Bueng Khong Long Lake - Isaan's little sea...

2011-04-18T17:21:00.007+07:00

Khong Khong Long Lake is situated in the Bueng Khong Long (Thai: บึงโขงหลง) district of the newly established Bueng Kan province. The lake is a massive fresh water reservoir built in 1976 and finished in 1979 by his Majesty the King and the Royal Thai Irrigation Department.

The 13 km long and 2 km wide lake has an approximate size of 8,064 rai or 22 square km and is considered a major eco-tourism site in Southern Bueng Kan province.

The lake attracts water sports enthusiast, hunters, fishermen and nature loving people alike. Small food stalls and water sport gear rental shops are available to serve customers needs. Lakeside huts allow to rest and eat, while guarding playing kids.

In 1981 Khong Khong Long Lake has been registered as a wetlands area of international ranking.

The Lake can be reached by following the highway 212 from Nong Khai to Bueng Kan and further to Bueng Khla. Then take a rigth turn onto road 2026 and follow it until you reach Bueng Khong Long.

High on Coffee in Southern Laos

2011-04-08T16:01:00.005+07:00

March 15, 2011 By Khiri News

We would like to give you a high quality caffeine rush. Paksong, 50 kms from Pakse in southern Laos, is the coffee growing capital of the country. Khiri Travel Laos now offers a Mr. Coffee tour up to the Bolaven Plateau at a nice and cool 1,300 metres to inspect the coffee growing region. There are around 5,000 families involved in growing coffee on the plateau.

The tour is highly informative, especially in the coffee nursery. The tour explains about the physical suitability of the plateau and how farmers have to adapt to international demand trends. The coffee story is explained from a Laotian and Western perspective. After learning, comes sampling. All visitors can roast some fresh coffee and enjoy their own freshly wok-roasted Arabica or Robusta coffees.

On the way back, the Mr. Coffee tour visits Tad Yeuang (‘Wild Goat’ waterfall), one of the most spectacular in Laos. We try some local cuisine and visit a village school in Tad Fane.

Knowledge, views, taste and helping local children – all part of Khiri Travel Laos’ Mr Coffee tour. More information: www.paksong.info

Audio Tour Brings Laos’ War Caves Alive

2011-01-06T16:11:00.003+07:00

December 27, 2010 By Khiri News

An audio tour launched in late 2009 in a remote corner of Indochina brings alive the story of America’s ‘secret war’ in Laos. Between 1964 and 1973 America, which was at war with North Vietnam, secretly dropped more bombs on neighboring Laos than were dropped on Europe in the whole of World War II.

Over 20,000 people in Viengxay in northeast Laos survived by living in an elaborate network of caves which are now open to the public. Many of the caves had specialist functions such as hospital, bakery, school, shop, theater or government office. A new audio tour of the caves, produced by Sydney-based company, is now available to tourists visiting Viengxay. The remote area is a scenic mix of abrupt limestone mountains and green valleys with rice paddies and hamlets.

“The creation of the audio tour is of historical significance,” says Ms Penny Street, Director and Founder of Narrowcasters, which produced the audio tour. “Forty-nine survivors were interviewed including farmers, doctors, soldiers, nurses, and even mothers who gave birth in the caves. It is the first time a large number of eye witnesses have been tracked down and their testament recorded for posterity and future use by historians.”

The 90-minute audio tour combines eye witness accounts and a narrative that explains the wider conflict of the Vietnam War. Throughout the 1960s and 70s as the cold war dominated geo-political thinking around the world, the ‘domino theory’ compelled decision makers in Washington DC who were trying to contain communism in Indochina. The consequences were dire for Laotian villagers, most of whom were subsistence farmers.

In October, Lonely Planet named the secret war caves at Viengxay among the top ten underground experiences in the world. Khiri Gold includes the remarkable caves on its tours of northeast Laos. See the itinerary here. Listen to an extract of the audio tour.

Day tours in Southern Laos...

2010-12-26T17:37:00.002+07:00

Relaxed Siphandone by boat Khong Island
Full day tour, Meals provided: L (picnic), Tour Code: KLP‐PKZ‐001

Starting from Khong Island at 8.30am, you explore the Siphandone area with your guide on a boat cruise to Khone Island.

Along the way observe locals engaged in fishing, bathing, swimming or farming activities.
On Khone Island visit the remains of a French locomotive. Take then a bicycle and ride to the spectacular Somphamit Falls.

Cycle back to Muang Khone, and enjoy lunch at Seng Ahroun restaurant.

After lunch, ride to the southernmost tip of Khone Island, where you observe the old French port, and follow the eastern shore, where concrete embankments used to channel logged trees.

Cross over the bridge and experience Det Island, the small island to the North of Khone Island. Det Island is a back backer’s paradise. Follow the road to the other end of the railway, where another pier awaits you.

Late this afternoon you return to Khong Island at 4.30pm.

Discover the Bolaven Plateau: Waterfalls, Gorges,Coffee fields and minorities
Full day tour, Meals provided: L, Tour Code: KLP‐PKZ‐002

You will be met at your hotel around 8.30am for a full day tour of the Bolaven Plateau.
Start your tour by driving up to Paksong, on the way you’ll visit coffee fields, Tad Fane waterfalls and Tad Yeuang ('Wild Goat') waterfall, one of the most spectacular waterfalls in Laos. You make a stop at the local Paksong Market.

Your Lao lunch is served at Ban Ta Thang nearby the market or at Tad Lo Waterfall.

After a short rest, you'll drive to Ban Kok Phoung to meet the Katou, one of the indigenous Mon‐Khmer ethnic groups in this area. Khmu, Alat, Ngae, Kalung, Lavane, Lavere, Katung ethnic groups you can be observed here, too.

You'll then continue your visit to Ban Houay Houn, a traditional weaving village. From here drive to Tad Phasuam and visit a small nearby ethnic cultural park.
Return to your hotel at 4.30pm.

Explore Wat Phou, Wat Muang Kang and Wat Tomo
Full day tour, Meals provided: L, Tour Code: KLP‐PKZ‐003

Meet at 8am at your hotel; and visit Pakse’ fresh market, where your guide explains you local products. Then drive to Champassak. On the way you visit Wat Phou Ngoy.

Visit Wat Phou. This Khmer temple Wat Phou was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2002. The walk to the upper part of the temple is steep, but the view over the surrounding countryside is rewarding.

You have a simple lunch 'fer' at the local noodle soup shop.

After lunch continue by boat to a nearby temple, Vat Muang Kang. Vat Muang Kang is the oldest temple in Champassak. Its French‐Lao fusion style library (tripitaka) is a unique architectural example of the colonial past.

Continue to visit Um Muang by boat. Um Muang (aka Wat Tomo) is a small Khmer temple ruin in the forest.

Return by car back to Pakse at 4.30pm.

Southern Laos - Coffee, waterfalls and Khmer ruins

2010-12-26T16:59:00.014+07:00

Champasak, the southernmost province of Laos, is currently best known for its UNESCO World Heritage site of Wat Phou, a pre-angkorian Khmer ruin complex, situated 10 kilometers outside of Champasak town or around 40 kilometers south of the provincial capital Pakse. Wat Phou is located at the base of mount Phou Kao, some 6 km from the Mekong River.

There was a temple on the site as early as the 5th century, but the surviving structures date from the 11th to 13th centuries. The temple has a unique structure, in which the elements lead to a shrine where a linga was bathed in water from a mountain spring. The site later became a centre of Theravada Buddhist worship, which it remains today.

Another, yet less known temple of Champasak town, is the on the Mekong riverside located temple of Wat Muang Kang. Wat Muang Kang, also known as Wat Phuthawanaram is the oldest temple in Champassak town. Its French colonial and Lao fusion style library (tripitaka) is quite unique architectural example of the colonial past. Wat Muang Kang can be reached by following a small path through lush bamboo, coconut and banana tree vegetation along the riverbanks of the mighty Mekong downstream for about 2 kilometers.

By crossing the Mekong River and cruising downstream, the nearby forest temple Oum Muong also known as Wat Tomo can be reached. Wat Tomo was built in the 13th or 14th century, probably as a rest house for visitors to Wat Phou. Covered by big trees and located on a tributary river to the Mekong, Wat Tomo has a unique charm and atmosphere.

Wat Phou Asa, a ruined Buddhist monastery, is located on the top of a sandstone hill next to Ban Kiet Ngong in the area of Pathoumphone (Phia Fai). Wat Phou Asa was built during the 19th century. The temples unusual shape and layout is probably inspired by Indian models. One hundred eight cylindrical stone piles made of slabs without mortar surround the centrally located sim. Many champa trees have been planted along the walls. The place, isolated in a dry and rocky area, inspires through mystery and wild grandeur. Although its origin is still in the dark, legends say that Wat Phou Asa is the burial place of the jewels, sent by the "Kha" to adorn the palace that Prince Kammatha was building near Wat Phou. When they learned that Prince Kammatha died without finishing the palace, Wat Phou Asa was built as citadel to protect the buried jewels.

The Bolaven plateau, an area well known for its high altitude and therefore all year round cool climate, is best described in two words: coffee and waterfalls.
In the near future coffee will not only contribute to Lao’s economic income as an export product but also as a major tourism attraction. Already today many oversee clients visit the coffee plantations during their stay in Pakse or on the Bolaven Plateau.
Mr. Sinouk Sisombat, the president of the Lao Coffee Association is currently building a resort on a 50 hectare coffee farm near Pakxong, about 80 km outside of Pakse. He plans to offer an agro-coffee tourism package, where clients staying at the resort can pick and process their own coffee beans during their stay…

Champasak is already today one of the top tourist destinations in Laos, with an annual tourism growth of around 10% over the last five years. In absolute figures around 300’000 people visited the province during 2009 and 2010. Most of these people visited Wat Phou, the Sipandone area and the province many waterfalls.
Coffee tourism is a new idea for Champasak province and could and would be a welcomed addition to any tour program in the area. Khiri Travel Laos offers already today some interesting tours and programs in the province and on the Bolaven plateau…

The Bolaven plateau offers also some very nice accommodation: Tad Fane Resort, which is hidden amidst the dense rainforest and overlooking the foaming twin waterfalls. The water of Tad Fane plunges 200 meters down a gorge which is really an amazing sight. Other nearby waterfalls such as Tad Yeuang, Tad Champee and Tad E Tu can be discovered during a day tour or on own along with coffee and tea plantations.

More reading information can be found here:

A tour program can be found here:

Day tours in Southern Laos

Tha Sadej - Royal Embarkation to the Mekong River

2010-12-19T13:34:00.004+07:00

Market places and boat landings along the Mekong River have a long tradition, as they allow for commerce and easy exchange of goods between the Mekong bordering countries and provinces. So does the one in the middle of Nong Khai town: "Tha Daan". Tha Daan was the name long known by locals for Nong Khai's riverside market and boat pier. Tha Daan was also the old border check point for immigration and customs, where travelers, traders and visitor could cross the Mekong River between Thailand and Laos. There was a regular ferry service.

In 1968, Their Majesties the King and Queen arrived from Bangkok and visited Nong Khai town to preside over a ceremony for the construction of the Nam Ngum dam and the resulting power supply from Lao PDR to Thailand.

Their Majesties the King and the Queen used the boat landing in Nong Khai's Muang district, to embark on a ferry to cruise on the river to reach the raft pavilion moored in the middle of the Mekong. Since then, local people have referred to the Tha Daan jetty as "Tha Sadej" (Thai: “sadej” means "go", but it is the verb form used only for the Their Majesties the King and the Queen).

Nowadays, the international border check point for immigration and customs has been moved from Tha Sadej to the 5 kilometers further upriver located Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge. Tourists wishing to visit Laos are obliged to use the Friendship bridge check point only.
However, Tha Sadej still serves as a convenient area for local merchants and traders to cross between Thailand and Laos. The market known as Tha Sadej is also known as Tha Sadej Indochina market, where duty & tax - free goods from China, Vietnam and Laos can be found. The products on sell include electrical goods, chinaware, ceramics, silk and cotton. Fabrics and food delicacies from Nong Khai province can be found too.

The rich selection and variety of available products at Tha Sadej Indochina market make it a famous and popular shopping area for tourists and locals visiting Nong Khai town.

Thai - Lao Friendship Bridge - Lao's lifeline to the World

2010-12-02T11:43:00.006+07:00

The First Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge (Thai: สะพานมิตรภาพ ไทย-ลาว แห่งที่ 1, Lao: ຂົວມິດຕະພາບ ລາວ-ໄທ ແຫ່ງທຳອິດ, is connecting Nong Khai in Thailand with Vientiane in Laos. The bridge over the Mekong River has a length of 1'170 meters. The bridge has two road lanes each 3.5 meters wide, two 1.5 meters wide footpaths and a single meter gauge railway line in the middle. The railway line was the latest addition in 2009 and connects Thanaleang station in Laos with the Royal Thai Northeastern Railways network.

In November 2010 plans to extend the service from Thanalaeng to Vientiane were abandoned. A new high-speed rail link from China to Thailand through Laos would make the extension redundant.

The Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge was first opened on April 8, 1994. The bridge was the first of four bridges over the Mekong River and connecting Laos and Thailand.
The Second bridge is connecting Mukdahan with the Lao town of Savannkhet, while the third one will connect the Thai city of Nakhon Phanom with Thakhek in Laos upon completion. The fourth bridge is in planning stage and will connect Ban Hoei Xai with Chiang Khong in Thailand's Chiang Rai province.

The whole construction costs for the first Friendship Bridge was about US$30 million and funded by the Australian government.

The traffic on the bridge drives on the left hand side as in Thailand. However traffic in Laos drives on the right. Therefore a traffic change over is needed on the Lao end.

A regular shuttle bus service operates across the bridge, between the Lao and Thai border posts. A ticket costs 15 Thai Bath or 4'000 Kip.

The story of Phra Sai, a much revered Buddha image in Nong Khai

2010-11-27T10:16:00.006+07:00

Wat Pho Chai is the most important and revered temple in Nong Khai. The temple houses the Buddha image of Phra Sai, a sacred image, which is much revered by Lao and Isaan people alike.

The centuries old Phra Sai Buddha is cast from gold in the posture of "Subduing Mara". The Buddha image is believed to date back to the ancient kingdom of Lane Xang.

Legends say that the three daughters of Setthathirath (*), the King of Lane Xang, commissioned three personal Buddha images. Theses images were believed to reflect the faces of the three daughters of the king. All of them were given names relating to the names of the three princesses, Phra Soem, Phra Souk and Phra Sai. An illustrative, and large mural can be seen at Wat Pho Chai. The mural was painted to record this historic event.

The three revered Buddha images were originally housed in Vientiane, Laos sleepy capital on the opposite Mekong Riverside, around 20 km of Nong Khai. However, around 200 years ago, the images were brought to Thailand during the invasion of Laos through the troupes of Rama III, King of Siam.

In a stormy night, Phra Souk fell in to the Mekong River while in transit to Nong Khai. The two surviving and remaining Buddha images were placed in Nong Khai's Wat Pho Chai and Wat Ho Klong. King Rama IV ordered, that the image of Phra Soem should be taken to Bangkok. Only Phra Sai was left in Wat Pho Chai. A visit to this most revered Buddha is rewarding and interesting alike. Wat Pho Chai is on the main highway 212, from Nong Khai to Phon Phisai, at km 2 on the left hand side...

Setthathirath (Lao: ເສດຖາທິຣາດ; 1534–1572) is one of the greatest leaders and kings in Lao history. He successfully defended the kingdom of Lan Xang against the Burmese conquerors.

Setthathirath erected many Buddhist monuments in Laos and Isaan, including the famous Wat Xieng Thong in Luang Prabang and the Phra That Luang stupa in Vientiane.

Khiri Announces New Day Trip Activities in Luang Prabang

2010-11-18T16:27:00.001+07:00

November 10, 2010 By Khiri News

Khiri Travel Laos, in cooperation with Tiger Trails, is launching new a range of trekking, kayaking, mountain biking and cooking options starting and finishing in Luang Prabang. The activities are suitable for active travelers with limited time who want to get away from the usual sites and enjoy a memorable Northern Laos experience. The new Khiri Travel Laos options work on fixed departure days with guaranteed starts for groups of two or more people.

The day trek near Luang Prabang shows that even within one day you can walk to places that seem further out of town. Visit Hmong and Khmu tribes as you hike amid amazing mountain landscapes.

Kayaking on the calm Nam Khan river is suitable for beginners but delivers a superlative close-to-nature experience. Paddlers stop in nearby villages, get ethnic village insights, visit the Elephant Village, the grave of a French explorer, the Tad Sae waterfall (in season) and keep their energy levels up with a very tasty barbecue lunch along the way.

The bicycle daytrip option opens up 30km of scenic road and dirt track in and around Luang Prabang. The biking, which is suitable for beginners, includes a trip to the Elephant Village, insights into ethnic village life, and plenty away-from-it-all big country vistas.

Khiri Travel Laos will also show you how to cook Laotian cuisine, which relies heavily on the freshest products. The end result is a range of flavors and textures, many of them different from what westerners are used to. The culinary experience starts with an early morning tour of Luang Prabang’s major food market where we buy our cooking ingredients for the day. At a charming riverside location you then prepare and cook an assortment of dishes under supervision. You then enjoy the outcome of your cooking in a pleasant garden setting. Lao cuisine recipes are provided for all budding chefs to take home.

Marc Albert, Country Manager of Khiri Laos, says: “There is so much to see and do in Luang Prabang that you can base yourself there for a week. You can then choose a range of soft adventure, nature and cultural experiences that will take your appreciation of the Luang Prabang area to a new level.”

For further information, visit Khiri Travel Laos.

Chao Anouvong - Laos' last king

2010-11-12T17:58:00.003+07:00

Chao Anouvong or by most Lao people called Chao Anou (1767-1829) was the last king of the former Lao kingdom of Lan Xang. Chao Anouvong was ruling from 1805 to 1828 in Vientiane. He came to power after his brother's death.

Chao Anouvong had long been an ally of the Thai monarchs against the Burmese invaders. Unfortunately his accomplishments and support of the Thai kingdom was not well recognized by them. From 1826 to 1828 Chao Anouvong rebelled against Siam in an attempt to become once again independent from Siam.

Chao Anouvong initially captured the Thai stronghold of Korat (Nakhon Ratchasima) with his army. He assumed, that the local Lao people will follow and support him in his attempt to liberate the mostly of Lao people inhabited Isaan provinces of Thailand. The support however was not as expected and Chao Anouvong had to withdraw his forces. Lady Mo, the deputy governor’s wife, is known for harassing the Lao invaders while they were withdrawing.
Finally Chao Anouvong's army was defeated in a three-day fight near Vientiane. The Siamese King Rama III ordered his troops to sack and occupy Vientiane.

Chao Anouvong managed to escape and tried to return with Vietnamese help. Chao Anouvong was again defeated by the Siamese troops and also captured. The Siamese King Rama III ordered Vientiane destroyed. Only one temple, Wat Sisaket, survived. The precious Buddha statues “Phra Bang” and “Phra Keo” were taken to Bangkok. Chao Anouvong died as prisoner in Bangkok.

Vientiane these days opened a new park and monument on the Mekong River to celebrate the 450 years anniversary of being Laos’ capital and to honor Chao Anouvong. Interesting to be mentioned, that the statue of Chao Anouvong turns its back towards Laos and eyes once again over the Mekong River into Thailand, where more than 20 million former Lao, nowadays Thais, are living in Thailand’s Northeastern Isaan provinces!

It seems to me that King Chao Anouvong better would have a closer look at Laos and its people once in a while…

Going Upriver and Back in Time in Laos

2010-10-15T15:09:00.004+07:00

October 11, 2010 By Khiri Insider
VOLUME 3 - OCTOBER 12, 2010

Great river escapes still exist. Mekong River Cruises & Mekong Islands Tours, a Lao-German company, launched the first Laotian cabin river cruiser on the upper Mekong in 2006. Today, Mekong River Cruises operates three boutique river cruise vessels and is the leading cruise company in Laos.

By cruising the Mekong River you can discover some of the remotest parts of Laos, and indeed Southeast Asia. There are insights into villages of Lao and minority people, many without electricity, road access or telephone connections. From the boat itself, and on several land excursions led by the crew, the ever changing scenery of lush green mountains, amazing rock formations and peaceful villages along the river banks acts as a perfect antidote to big city pretensions.

Mekong River Cruises has launched an eight-day cruise from Luang Prabang to Chiang Saen on the Thailand border.

This amazing cruise starts in Luang Prabang, the charming former French colonial town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and probably one of the most beautiful towns in Southeast Asia. The cruise winds its way through the Laotian countryside on the Mekong, passing the sacred Pac Ou caves, the small town of Pak Beng and many small minority villages until it reaches Hoay Xay in Bokeo province. It then proceeds further west up the river to the Thai town of Chiang Saen, its final destination in the Golden Triangle, a border region between Thailand, Myanmar and Laos.

This eight-day cruise on the upper Mekong River is an extraordinary experience traveling on the most comfortable river vessel available in Laos.

Khiri Laos country manager, Marc Albert, took the trip and concluded: “Exploring the Mekong River on Mekong Explorer is an unique way of traveling through Northern Laos. Although I have visited quite a few remote places in Laos, I was deeply impressed by the insights on riverside communities along the Mekong River.”

He adds: “With no modern communication tools, electricity or overland road access, these communities along the Mekong River live their traditional lives pretty much as they did 100 or more years ago. The Mekong Explorer allows you to discover these remote areas and people in a unique and very comfortable way. The slower pace of river travel lets one relax and enjoy the beauty of Mother Nature. It is a lost paradise only accessible by boat.”

Khiri Travel can arrange such cruises as well as pre- and post cruise extensions throughout Laos, Indochina and Thailand. Visit www.khirilaos.com.

Mekong Sunset... in Pak Khat

2010-07-14T10:00:00.000+07:00

Pak Khat (Thai: ปากคาด) is a small district (amphoe) bordering the Mekong River in the eastern part of Nong Khai Province, northeastern Thailand, aka Isaan. The king amphoe or minor district was established on October 1 1978, when it was split off from Phon Phisai district.

Neighboring districts are Bueng Kan, So Phisai, and Rattanawapi - all in Nong Khai Province. On the opposite Mekong river banks is the Laotian province of Bolikhamxai.

Pak Khat is a small but vivid town, nestled along the Mekong river. Sunsets can be amazing as you can see from below pictures.

Khonephapheng waterfall in Southern Laos Sipandone area

2010-07-07T13:33:00.004+07:00

The Khonephapheng waterfall (Lao: ຂກົກນເກະ ຜກະ ຜເກະງ) is located on the Laotian part of the Mekong River in the Southernmost province of Lao PDR - Champassak.

The Khonephapheng waterfall are closed to the border of Cambodia.

The Khonephapheng waterfall is the main reason, why the Mekong river is not navigable into Thailand, Burma and China.
The French colonialists made in the late 19th century several efforts to make the falls navigable but all failed.
The only successful attempt by the French was made possible by building two ports, one in the South of Khone Island (below the falls) and one in the Eastern shore of Det island (above the falls), linking the two islands with a bridge and connecting the two ports with a small railway. By doing so, the French were able to circumvent the steepest rapids and allow trans-Mekong-shipment.

The total height of the Khonephapheng falls is 21 meters in several cascades stretching over 10 kilometers of the Mekong river's length. The average discharge of the cataract is nearly 11,000 cubic meters per second, making the Khonephapheng falls the largest waterfall in terms of volume in Southeast Asia.

Wat Phra That Bang Phuan

2010-06-29T08:22:00.006+07:00

Wat Phra That Bang Phuan in Nong Khai's Ban Don Mu 'village', Phra That Bang Phuan district is one of the region’s most a beautiful Indian-style stupa and one of the most sacred sites within the province.

It is believed, that some of Lord Buddha’s bones are buried here.
Therefore the place is much respected and worshiped by residents and visitors alike.

Although no one really knows, when the first chedi of Phra That Bang Phuan was built, it is assumed, that it is of the same age as the chedi in Phra Phathom, as it is similar in construction (built with bricks) and style.

In 1559 King Sayaxettha of Chanthaburi (Viang Chan – aka Vientiane, Laos) extended his capital across the Mekong river and built a taller Lao-style chedi over the original as a demonstration of faith.

The nearby Naga pond or 'Sa Phaya Nak' was used in the past to bath the new rulers as an auspicious gesture.

However, heavy rain caused the chedi in 1970 to collapse. Thailand's Fine Arts Department restored the structure in 1976 and 1977.

The current chedi stands 34.25m high and has several older chedis around it. The lower base of the chedi is 17.2 m wide and consists of five tiers.

This special setting gives the temple of Phra That Bang Phuan an ancient and sacred atmosphere.

Wat Phra That Bang Phuan is 23 km outside Nong Khai direction to Tha Bo.

Waterfalls on the Bolaven Plateau

2010-06-22T15:06:00.018+07:00

The Bolaven Plateau is an elevated region in Southern Laos Champassak province. The elevation ranges from about 1'000 to 1'350 meters above sea level.

The plateau is a reach cultural and agricultural area, crossed by several rivers and scenic waterfalls.

The name of the plateau 'Bolaven' refers to one of its ethnic group which have dominated the region: the Laven. However, migrations by the majority Lao ethnic group has modified the ethnic composition of the region. Other ethnic groups in the Bolaven Plateau are the Alak, Katu, Ta Oy, and Suay.

Nowadays the Bolaven plateau is an important agricultural area which produces one of the best coffee in the world. Another important factor is tourism, which greatly contributes to the regions growth. Lastly, bauxite mining is increasingly becoming more important as well.

Tad E Tu Waterfall

Tad E Tu Waterfall is located between Pakse and Paksong at KM 35. The waterfall can be reached over a small and steam path and stairs. The small pool at its bottom invites with some refreshing swimming opportunities.

Tad Champee Waterfall

Tad Champee Waterfall is located between Pakse and Paksong at KM 38, opposite Tad Fane waterfall. The waterfall is about 3 kilometers from the main road. The Tad Champee consists of one single cascade. Its pool is offering some refreshing bath...

The Tad Fane Waterfall

The Tad Fane Waterfall is 38 KM outside of Pakse and probably the biggest twin waterfall in the Bolaven region. The water dropps over 100 meters!. The best view on this waterfall one gets from the nearby view point at Tad Fane Resort, a friendly lodge overlooking the gorge of the Tad Fane waterfall and nestled within some tense vegetation. For a closer look a small walk of 15 minutes is required to reach the bottom of the falls.

Tad Yuang Waterfall

Tad Yuang Waterfall is a bit further along the way to Paksong at KM 39. This waterfalls comes with a nice pick nick area at the top of the waterfall. A view point at the top allows a great panorama over the whole waterfall.

Tad Phasuam Waterfall

Tad Phasuam Waterfall is on the way to Tad Lo in Salavan province, after leaving Pakse turn left at KM 21 and continue for a further 15km. Tad Phasuam Waterfall is a beautiful cascade in a U form. There is a small cultural village nearby.

Uncharted land - caves, monks and Khmu

2010-06-18T15:52:00.003+07:00

On my last visit in Luang Prabang I had the opportunity to visit an "unknown" cave. Tham Khou Pa. The monks used to live in that cave 10 years ago. There are rumors, that the monks engaged with local village girls. So the government ordered them to leave the place. Since then the place is deserted.

The cave, the mountain, the rice paddies and the whole area are very pristine and preserved.

The foot of the mountain is surrounded by a agricultural land mainly used to grow rice. A small path leads along and finally through the paddies for about 200 to 250 meters before it reaches the slop which ascends in a 45 degree angle to the top of the mountain. The path continues to some small bush vegetation and a small mountain side field, containing all kind of crops, such as bananas, pineapple, maize, cassava and other eatable plants. The garden is owned by a Khmu family.

We met the 80 years old grandfather of the family who finally showed us the way to the cave. As our first attempt, lead by a local guide was unsuccessful.

The old man met us at the rock cliffs where we were waiting for him, soaked in our on sweat. The last part just before the slop ends and goes over in a rocky, more mountainous area, the trail was overgrown with grass and bamboo. We used some knives which we broth along for the purpose to make our own path.

I consider myself as a more sportive person, but compared to the old Khmu I had not the slightest chances of keeping pace with him. In fact I lost him after 3 minutes. He even overtook our own 25 year old Lao guide. The old guy was sitting in front of the cave, smiling and waiting for us. While the rest lost another liter of body fluid... I was quite a bit impressed of the old Khmu guys fitness. Well, more than 65 years of gardening on the mountain seems to make one stronger... Some small parts included minor climbing skills.

The cave itself is very interesting and one can see that it has been left for a long time. Some wooden and bamboo structures built by the monks still remain intact, though the time takes its tribute.
Natural light and ventilation make the cave quite a livable place. The cave consists of an small entrance area and one big chamber with some smaller hideaways, which were used by the monks as sleeping area.

All in all a very nice, interesting and "undiscovered" cave, just a few minutes from Nam Khan.

Needless to say that I had to refill my missing body fluids with a couple of beerlaos afterwards.

Trail of Falls and Tad See, Luang Prabang

2010-06-07T11:52:00.001+07:00

I had recently the opportunity to survey a trekking tour in Luang Prabang – the Trail of Falls. The trek leads through lush vegetation, Teak wood, pineapple and banana plantations and some smaller batches of primary forest. Some watch towers along the way allow an excellent view and make some pictures of the magnificent mountainous country side near Luang Prabang.

The first part of the trek can either be done of an elephant's back or on foot. The path is very easy and uncomplicated. The walk can be done in about 1,5 hours.

Short after my arrival in the Elephants Village hospice camp lunch was served.

The Trail of Fall starts here and follows through a small valley, tensely covered with primary forest. Different species of trees and other plants can be observed.

Guides informed me about medicinal and eatable plants. Insects and few birds can be seen. Small ponds with pristine and crystal clear water are home to small fishes and river crabs.

Although during the dry season the Trail of Falls becomes more like a Trail of Ponds, however from the end of the rainy season until mid or end of February a myriad of falls, ponds, small islands, and caves appear and form one of the most beautiful landscapes one can imagine.

The Trail of Falls is a bit more demanding than the first stretch. Average fit person should be able to walk the trail within 1,5 to maximum two hours. Some stairs and railings have been made to facilitate the walk over some small batches of more difficult terrain. In general also this Trail is easy.

Towards the end of the Trail of Falls Tad See waterfall and its many cascades come into sight. Tad See water fall is very beautiful during May to February.
A construction made by some Thai engineers is doing a good job in getting water to the fall and filling the pond at its end with enough water all year round. Although the pipes and the sand bags used to dam the water are not particularly beautiful.

All in all a wonderful trekking tour out of Luang Prabang, which I can recommend without hesitation to any nature lover.

Kuang Si waterfall, Luang Prabang's highlights

2010-05-30T08:10:00.001+07:00

The Kuang Si water fall is about 30 kilometers south of the UNESCO World Heritage town of Luang Prabang, Laos. The falls and the nearby bear sanctuary is a favorite trip for tourists while in Luang Prabang. The Kuang Si water fall begins in a pool atop a hillside. This pool leads to the main fall with its 50 meter cascade. Further down numerous turquoise blue pools collect the water on its way downstream.

Buddhist monks in Isaan and Laos

2010-05-21T19:47:00.001+07:00

Buddhism is the most important religion of Laos and Thailand's northeastern provinces, also known as Isaan. Buddhism practiced in this region follows the Theravada (literally, "the Teaching of the Elders" or "the Ancient Teaching", which is the oldest surviving Buddhist school) tradition.

The form of Buddhism practiced along the Mekong River countries Thailand and Laos is a unique version of Theravada Buddhism and is the corner stone of the local culture.

Buddhist practices and beliefs are often closely tied to animist and ancestral spirits beliefs, particularly in rural areas.

In Isaan and in Laos one does not need to walk far in a village to encounter a Buddhist temple and monks living there. Monks in their saffron or orange colored robes are easy to recognize.

By getting up early in the morning, monks can be seen in long lines walking with dignity to collect alms from laymen.

Lay persons by offering alms engage in merit making activities. These activities include offering food and other basic necessities to monks, making donations to temples and monasteries, burning incense or lighting candles before images of the Buddha, and chanting protective or merit-making verses from the Pali Canon.

In evening times, one can listen to their divine chanting in the temple or just have a seat and enjoy sitting with the monks and watching them.

Two different monastic roles in Theravada can be observed and described: the role of the urban scholar monk and the rural or forest meditation monk. Both serve their communities as spiritual teachers and provide instruction in basic Buddhist morality and teachings.

The minimum age for ordaining as a Buddhist monk is normally 20 years. However, boys under that age are allowed to ordain as novices. Almost all boys spend some time (usually around 3 months) in their village temple to gain merit. In some more remote areas the local temple is often the only place of education. Monks follow 227 rules of discipline, while nuns follow 311 rules.

Therefore men who have ordained as a monk may be seen as more fit husbands by many women...

Khiri Travel Launches ‘Tribes and Rivers of Northern Laos’ – A 7 Day Tour

2010-05-12T15:12:00.000+07:00

BANGKOK, THAILAND, 4 February 2010 – Khiri Travel has launched a “Tribes and Rivers of Northern Laos” tour. The luxury seven-day tour is part of the company’s Khiri Gold collection of travel experiences. Khiri Gold tours are designed for discerning top-end travellers who require authentic travel without compromising comfort levels.

The tour explores the northern Laos UNESCO World Heritage town of Luang Prabang and its surrounding areas for two days. Then the focus moves to the exotic array of hill tribe minority villages available from the Muang La luxury boutique resort in Udom Xay province. The area is deep in the mountains of northern Laos on the way to the Chinese border.

From Muang La Resort, there are trips by 4WD and gentle hikes on foot to visit an Akha village perched on a 3,000 foot mountain top. In the village the women folk wear colourful headdresses adorned with silver coins. Guests also explore Hmong, Lao Loum and Khmu tribal villages.

Khiri Gold’s “Tribes and Rivers of Northern Laos” trip includes five hours on a comfortable riverboat cruising on the Nam Ou River. Guests enjoy a picnic lunch on a secluded river beach amid some of the most dramatic scenery in Southeast Asia.

“We are confident that discerning guests will love the Muang La boutique resort,” said Marc Albert, the Country Manager of Khiri Travel Laos. “The resort is surrounded by forests, rice fields, and hot water springs that are thousands of years old. A Buddhist temple on the valley side adds spirituality to a place that has changed very little through the years.”

Muang La resort consists of three wooden villas of ethnic design. Local Laotian art in the rooms add to the experience. A unique feature of the resort is its candle-lit Lao sauna, where steam is scented with natural herbs and grasses to create a truly relaxing experience. There is also a large spa plunge pool for guests to luxuriate in.

At the resort, guests can select where they would like their dining table placed in the gardens which are lit by torchlight and candles in the evening. The Muang La resort serves a fine selection of wines and champagne.

Guests also spend over two and a half days exploring the attractions of Luang Prabang and the surrounding area. Highlights include walking tours and visits to textile galleries, weaving centres, museums and temples. Early risers can witness the moving sight of long lines of bare-foot monks on their silent morning alms rounds.

Visitors also get to inspect the Pac Ou caves which contain up to 3,000 Buddha images, many of them inlaid with semi-precious stones.

According to Willem Niemeijer, co-founder of Khiri Travel, guests can now explore many culturally-rich corners of Indochina without compromising comfort levels, service standards or food and beverage options. “Khiri Gold itineraries open a new world of possibilities to top-end travellers. It’s a growth trend we see continuing, especially in source markets such as Europe, North America, Australia and among expatriates in Asia.”

Phu Foi Lom - Eco Park near Udon Thani...

2010-05-05T19:40:00.003+07:00

Phu Foi Lom is an Eco-tourism destination which provides different activities for nature lovers, such as hiking, trekking and relaxing in a garden style area of approximately 192'356 Rai of land.

Phu Foi Lom is part of the Pan Don Pa Ko National Reserved Park, where rare flora and fauna can be spotted.

Phu Foi Lom is located about 40 kilometers southwest of Udon Thani.

Big bangs on Planet Yasothon - Bang Fai Festival

2010-04-27T20:39:00.000+07:00

The Northeastern province gets ready for its annual ‘Bang Fai’ Festival ...

Big bangs on Planet Yasothon

Lush river life... some impressions...

2010-04-20T09:20:00.019+07:00

Ferry crossing the Mekong River in Ban Houay Xay, Bokeo Province, Northern Laos.

Boys playing football on the banks of the Nam Ou in Ban Soph Van, Luang Prabang Province, Northern Laos.

Ban Nong Khiow at the Nam Ou, Luang Prabang Province, Northern Laos.

Fisherman checking his net on Nam Khan, near Luang Prabang, Luang Prabang Province, Northern Laos.

Training for the boat racing festival?, Nam Khan, Luang Prabang Province, Northern Laos.

Children enjoying the 2008 flood at Nam Khan Riverside, Luang Prabang town, Laos.

Girl watching the 2008 flooding in Luang Prabang town, Luang Prabang Province, Northern Laos.

Boats in Luang Prabang, Laos.

Boat racing festivals are held in Cambodia, Laos and Thailand during the months of September and October.

Flooting restaurant in Pakse on the Sedone River, Champasak Province, Southern Laos.

Boat landing to cross the Mekong river, opposite Ban Champasak (near UNESCO World Heritage site of Vat Phou), Champasak Province, Southern Laos.

Sunset over the Mekong, Khong Island, Sipandone area, Champasak Province, Southern Laos.

Abundant fish life, market on Khong Island, Champasak Province, Southern Laos.

Fisherman fixing his traps, Preah Rumkel community, Stung Treng Province, Cambodia.

Ferry boat in Stung Treng town, Stung Treng Province, Cambodia.

Thai New Year - Songkran, Songkran!!!

2010-04-12T14:26:00.003+07:00

Each year in the middle of April Thai and Lao people celebrate New Year (Thai: Songkran; Lao Piimai) and show their respect for Buddha images, elderly people and their parents and superiors. The whole house is getting cleaned and refurbished. Parents are respectfully splashed with some water and powder. Often flower offerings are given as well. Similarly, vehicles such as cars and mopeds, are blessed with flowers, water and powder ...

Who ever is traveling on roads, will almost certainly get a shower from people waiting for their opportunity along the street side. Water is drown from passing cars or from kids who are heavily armed with water pistols and all kind of tools to splash water. This provides you a nice cool off during the hottest time of the year ...

Caution is however advised on Laos and Thailand's roads, as the number of fatal accidents is increasing every year!

Otherwise, a few older clothes assembled, mounted with a hat and equipped with a water pistol and off you go and join in for the ultimate water splash of the year! Happy New Year! Happy Songkran!

Luang Prabang Night Market - a photografic impression

2010-04-01T17:56:00.000+07:00

Wat Kham Chanot - abode of naga lord Sisotho

2010-03-25T08:00:00.004+07:00

Wat Kham Chanot (Thai: วัดคำชะโนด) is a Buddhist forest temple near Kham Chanot village in Udon Thani province, Northeastern Thailand (Isaan).

The temple is located in the Wang Nakhin area at a lake where the naga lord Sisotho, a mythical large snake, is supposed to be living.

The worship of this naga lord is one of the main issue in this small forest monastery.

Around eight to ten monks live here on a permanent base.

Locals (Isaan and Lao people) believe that the naga lord has a hideaway on the island.
It is connected to the other Wat premises by a bridge.

The entrance of the bridge is guarded by two large nagas. The shrine of the Wat is located on the island.

A small zoo as well as a rural market for visitors has been added to the temple.

Phra That Nong Khai - the sunken pagoda

2010-03-17T19:00:00.003+07:00

Phra That Nong Khai (aka Phra That Klang Nam) is the remains of a 400 to 600 year old temple that collapsed into the Mekong River in 1847.

Subsequent erosion left the stupa now in the center of the river. It is only visible during the dry season and low water levels of the Mekong River.

Nong Khai people decorate the small part above the surface with flags.

A newly constructed replica of the original temple was built in 2006 on the riverbank close to its original location.

Just follow the promanade along the Mekong River towards the Thai-Lao Friendship bridge.

Mekong Sunset... Luang Prabang

2010-03-06T08:31:00.000+07:00

Interesting places in Vientiane: Ho Kang

2010-03-01T15:38:00.003+07:00

Ho Kang - the tiny spirit house of the Chao Ho Kang is located on the Mekong Riverside at Fa Ngum boulevard. This small shrine is a place of ancestor worship of the old Chinese community in Vientiane.

The main room is dedicated to Chinese gods and deities, while the less well known shrine of the Lao spirit Chao Ho Kang is in the smaller room to the right.

Before 1975 yearly purification rites for the muang (town) Vientiane were held here.

French and Lao colonial buildings in Vientiane

2010-02-24T19:50:00.002+07:00

While touring through Vientiane one will encounter French colonial Villas and administration buildings, old Lao town houses, hidden and forgotten shrines of Vientiane’s guardian deities, small spirit houses and famous temples. Among those last ones are Wat Si Muang - where the city pillar of Vientiane is located -, Wat Sisaket - which miraculously survived the Siamese invasion -, or Wat Ho Phra Keo, the former temple of the revered Emerald Buddha.

Although the French colonial government never had a big budget for impressive and large colonial constructions and buildings as they had in Saigon, Hanoi or to a lesser extend in Phnom Penh, by touring through Vientiane’s present one will experience its French past…

French Colonial Villas (ADB) at the junction Lane Xang - Samsenthai, which belong to the first section of French colonial construction in Vientiane. This first phase of construction took place in 1914 to 1930.

French Colonial Villas right after the junction Samsenthai - Lane Xang on Samsenthai road.

The Sacred Heart Church was constructed between 1914 and 1930 east of the main administrative district.

The church served the French colonists and the Vietnamese administration staff.

Lao colonial houses built for the local elite during the French occupation of Laos. This type of house was built until 1950.

Nowadays many of these houses have disappeared .

Lao housing from the French colonial period is clearly different from other colonial housing styles as well as from traditional Lao housing and architecture.

This Lao colonial house is built on stilts and the walls are made of torchis (mixture of straw, lime and sand) covered with whitewash - another characteristic element of this period.

This Lao colonial house is characterized by the use of architectural structures such as twin gables, a large covered balcony, from the outside visible access points and the significant use of wood.

The use of bricks however is a contribution from the European architecture.

While the French colonial government established national libraries in Vietnam and Cambodia, they only created a small city library in Laos.

In 1956 this library became the Vientiane General Library.

Since then, the Library has been moved several times until it became the Lao National Library in its current building on Samsenthai Road.

The Education Printing Office was first constructed in 1910/11 and used as a school. The school was part of the core establishment of colonial buildings I Vientiane area.

Constructed 1925 as Hôtel du commissariat, was then used as Ministry of Defence. 1980, it was turned into the Revolutionary Exhibition Hall. 1985, it was upgraded to become the Lao Revolutionary Museum.

In 2000 it was re-established as the Lao National Museum.

Namphou Fountain belonged together with the area around That Dam to the second settlement zone during the French colonial area. At the Northeastern corner one can find the former police station, built in 1921 – nowadays the Vietnamese tourism office.

The sala - where the Thais and Laotians meet their friends...

2010-02-16T11:31:00.003+07:00

A Sala (Thai: ศาลา), is an open pavilion like construction, which is used as a meeting, resting or relaxation place.
It's main purpose is to protect people from the tropical weather phenomenon, such as intense sun and rain.

Most salas are open on four sides. They can be found throughout Thailand and Laos. Originally salas were built within Buddhist temple areas, also know as Wats, but they can also be located in other places, such as road side shelters, in plantations or in front of private houses.

If a person builds a sala within a temple compound or in another public place, the person will gain merit and the respect of the local community.

A sala located on the ground of a temple is called a sala wat.

While some temples have large salas where the public can hear sermons or receive religious instructions other have only small salas or none at all. In Cambodia, sala also refers to school.

In Thailand's and Laos' more rural areas, travelers can use the salas to rest and reflect. A roadside sala is a sala rim thannon and may be used as a bus stop.

Salas in front of private houses are often constructed from wood, bamboo and thatched with a palm tree roof. This natural material allows the air to freely flow, which is especially helpful during the hotter time of the year. The sala is used by the whole family. It serves as storage, working and resting place, but also to meet friends and other people. The sala is a often used socializing place in Thailand and Laos.

Exploring the Sun... - a laotian joke II

2010-02-10T10:58:00.000+07:00

Future Exploration

Four delegates from China, Russia, the United States and Lao PDR attended the United Nations' Meeting. All the nations were discussing about space exploration by the year 2010. Here are some of the conversations:

Chinese Delegate: "By the year 2010, China will start their moon exploration project."

Russian Delegate: "We too, we are going to explore the moon. This time we will see to it that our cosmonauts will step on the moon."

American Delegate: "We, the United States will also explore the moon for second time."

The Lao Delegate announced: "By the year 2010, Laos will explore the sun."

There was a long silence, the American stood up and asked the laotian guy: "Isn't it too hot to explore the sun?"

The Laotian said (smiling): "We had this thought out already. We will do it in the evening."

Interesting places in Vientiane: Nam Pasak Spirit House

2010-02-05T20:16:00.002+07:00

Nam Pasak Spirit House of the guardian naga lord Inthachakkhunag, one of the nine guardian naga of Vientiane.

During the French colonization the shrine was owned and cared for by the Vietnamese community,

In 2000 the spirit house reverted back to Lao custodianship.

The shrine houses deities of several different religions and is located at the western end of Vientiane's Mekong riverside.

Usually the small shrine is closed. Best chance to get a glimpse of the interior of the spirit house is in the morning when offerings are made and the shrine is cleaned.

Sinking... - a laotian joke I

2010-01-27T10:52:00.000+07:00

Once upon a time, three people were stranded out at sea - A Japanese, a Laotian and a Vietnamese. The boat started leaking and if they do not act fast they would all die.

The Japanese (as usual) was the first to take the initiative. He threw all his Japanese gizmos - CD player, laptop, hi-fi, radio etc. off the boat. The Laotian and the Vietnamese looked at him in disbelief. The Japanese said, "Don't worry...still got a lot more in my country...BANZAIIIEE!"

But the boat was still sinking. The Vietnamese without hesitation started throwing aboard all his dog jerkies, nuoc mam, Pho noodle, etc.. He comforted the other two, "Don't worry. Still have a lot more in my country".

But still the boat was sinking. The Japanese and the Vietnamese looked at the Laotian. Suddenly, without any hesitation and with stride, the Laotian threw the Vietnamese overboard. The poor guy couldn't swim and drowned. The Japanese was shocked. The Laotian said, "Don't worry...still got a lot more in MY country!!!"

Phra That Luang - Laos national symbol

2010-01-20T15:08:00.002+07:00

According to the Lao people, Phra That Luang was built in the 3rd century as an Indic temple. Buddhist missionaries, sent by the Emperor Ashoka of India, including Bury Chan and five Arahata monks, who are beliefed to have brought a holy relic of Lord Buddha which resides in the stupa. Phra That Luang was rebuilt in the 13th century as a Khmer temple.

In the mid of the 16th century, Lane Xang King Setthathirat relocated his capital from Luang Prabang to Vientiane. He ordered the re-construction of Phra That Luang in 1566.

Phra That Luang was rebuilt in the northeastern outskirts of Vientiane, about 4 km from the center. Phra That Luang's bases had a length of 69 meters each and was 45 meters high. The main stupa was surrounded by 30 smaller stupas.

In 1641, the Dutch envoy Gerrit van Wuysoff visited Vientiane. He was received by the Lao King at the temple site of Phra That Luang, where he was received in a magnificent ceremony. Gerrit van Wuysoff was impressed by the "enormous pyramid and the top was covered with gold leaf weighing about a thousand pounds".

However, the Phra That Luang stupa was repeatedly plundered by Burmese, Siamese and Chinese invaders.

Phra That Luang was heavily damaged by the Siamese invasion in 1828 and left abandoned. In 1900, Phra That Luang was restored by the French colonialists to its original design based on the drawings from the French architect and explorer Louis Delaporte.

The final reconstruction work was done in the 1930s.

Phra That Luang is revered in a festival each year during November, where laymen honor monks with food offerings. Phra That Luang is the most important symbol of the Lao state and its people.

The Baci ceremony

2010-01-15T12:12:00.003+07:00

The Baci ceremony is one of the most important, unique and most regularly held ceremonies in Laos and Thailand’s northeastern Isaan provinces.

The Baci celebration is always sincere, and anyone is welcome to join. During the ceremony a goood health and long life is wished to all its participants.

The Baci ceremony is also known by Laotians and Thais as “Soukhouan” which means the calling and receiving of the soul. People in Laos and Isaan believe that the body has 32 parts and each part comes with its own wandering soul. While the ceremony is held, the absent souls are asked to return to their physical bodies.
This is part of the ceremony is usually performed by an elderly man also known as a “Thit” or “Chane” a former monk.

On the day of Soukkhouan the participating people take a tray called a “Phakouan” with them. The tray is made of banana leafs filled with flowers, the “champa” or frangipani flower, which is the national flower of Laos.

Other things which are used during the Baci ceremony are: alcohol; eggs; rice cakes; money; candles and cotton thread.

When all the guests have arrived the ceremony will begin with the lighting of the candle on the top of the tray and some incense sticks after which the “Thit” communicates with the divinities. Then cotton thread is nodded around the participants’ wrists, like thin white bracelets.

During a wedding Baci ceremony also money is tied on the wrist of the married couple…

Minority people and cultures of Laos II - impressions

2010-01-07T14:10:00.000+07:00

Laos' Plain of Jars - the next UNESCO World Heritage site

2010-01-02T16:02:00.000+07:00

The Lao government prepares the nomination dossier to inscribe the Plain of Jars to become the third Lao UNESCO World Heritage site, after the ancient town of Luang Prabang in the north of Laos and the ruined Khmer temple of Vat Phou (Champasak province) in Laos' South. The Plain of Jars is situated on a vast plateau in the Vietnam bordering province of Xieng Khouang. A province, which was often conquered and fought for in the past because of its strategic importance to the Vietnamese Emperors residing in Hue as well as to the Kings of the Lao Kingdom of Lane Xang.

The jars can be found all over the plateau, scattered in clusters of up to 300 at different spots, and varying in size from one to over three meters in height. However, the most famous jar sites are located in close proximity to the town of Phonsavanh, the provincial capital of Xieng Khouang province.

Some locals belief, that the jars were build as big distilleries for alcoholic drinks, brewed to celebrate various victories and military campaigns won in the past over ancient enemies. More scientific and archaeological evidence suggests that the jars are used as urns for funerary. They were used by people back in the Bronze Age approximately 2'000 years ago.

In the Second Indochina War, Xieng Khouang once again, played an important role as battle ground in the fights between Pathet Lao revolutionary troops and the Royal Lao government and its American backed Hmong rebels. Many battles and intense aerial bombardments took place. Its legacy, the contamination of the land with unexploded mines and bombs, still takes its toll today amongst the rural villages and farmers.

However, nowadays Xieng Khouang province in central Laos is a peaceful area with a cooler weather then elsewhere in Laos, vast grasslands, ethnic minorities and a developing tourism industry with good hotels and interesting attractions.

The Plain of Jars can be reached either from the Lao side by air from Vientiane or by following the National highway 7 from Phou Khoun or from Vietnam. The Lao government is constructing the National highway 10 from Phonsavan to Pakxan, which will link the province even closer with Vientiane and the Southern Lao provinces.

Isaan (อีสาน)

2009-12-31T09:30:00.003+07:00

Isaan (อีสาน; also Isan), Thailand's north-east region, is an often overlooked part of the country.

Isaan is completely landlocked and resides on the Korat plateau, situated well above the central basin, the Chao Praya plains and Bangkok. In the North, East and South-East Isaan's border is marked by the Mekong River.

Isaan is a multicultural area where Laos, Cambodia and Thailand meet. Isaan has a rich history and culture. A mainly agricultural region, Isaan is the poorest part of Thailand.

The population of Isaan is around 22 million people.

Isaan consists of 19 Provinces

Amnat Charoen
Buriram
Chaiyaphum
Kalasin
Khon Kaen
Loei
Maha Sarakham
Mukdahan
Nakhon Phanom
Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat)
Nong Bua Lamphu
Nong Khai
Roi Et
Sakon Nakhon
Si Saket
Surin
Ubon Ratchathani
Udon Thani
Yasothon

Mayor Cities

Buriram
Khon Kaen
Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat)
Nong Khai - gateway to Vientiane, Laos
Sakon Nakhon
Surin
Ubon Ratchathani
Udon Thani
Yasothon
Mahasarakham

Hmong New Year Festival

2009-12-30T09:03:00.004+07:00

The Hmong New Year is a Hmong tradition which takes place annually in areas where large Hmong communities exist. In Laos provinces such as Luang Prabang, Xieng Khouang, Vientiane and Oudom Xay the festival is held at several different places.

During the New Year's celebration, Hmong people dress in traditional clothing and enjoy traditional foods, dance, music, bull fights, and other forms of entertainment.

The Hmong New Year occurs usually during November and/or December (at the end of the harvest season), serving as a thanksgiving holiday for the Hmong people.

Historically, the celebration was held to give thanks to ancestors and spirits as well as to welcome in a new beginning. The New Year celebration lasts for ten days.

Minority people and cultures of Laos I - impressions

2009-12-06T13:56:00.004+07:00

Mekong River bank erosion in Vientiane

2009-11-30T15:22:00.000+07:00

The stretch of Mekong River between Laos and Thailand is characterized by its meandering course and relatively low gradient through the Khorat plateau and the Isaan. The major consequence of this characteristic is the natural instability of the River banks, its erosion and a growing sedimentation of the river itself.

The Mekong River also changes largely in river height occurring between the rainy season in the months of May to September and the the dry seasons in the rest of the year.

Annual flooding along the Mekong River and its tributaries cause a progressive weakening of the river's embankments. It is this process, which creates steep sloping river banks at various locations along the Mekong river. This phenomenon poses a constant danger to village houses and temples, roads and agricultural land situated along the Mekong River.

Erosion occurs and is affected by the following natural factors: heavy rainfall, vanishing vegetation cover, river bank soil in-stability and river sedimentation amongst other conditions.

In Vientiane, the bigger parts of the Mekong River banks have been cleared of trees and vegetation. Some places along Don Chan Island have been re-used for agricultural purposes. Local people planted vegetables and crops along the banks – raising concerns with the Vientiane municipality and the Lao government about the increased erosion of the unprotected river banks during high flow periods.

Therefore in Vientiane and other places, river bank revetment is considered to be the best engineering solution to stop and prevent the more and more serious Mekong River bank erosion.

To date, approximately 3 km of river bank protection and revetment work has been undertaken and more is to follow.

Caves and Wat Dane Soung

2009-11-23T17:12:00.000+07:00

Located some 30 km northwest of Vientiane, Dane Soung is accessible by following the RN13 towards the direction of Luang Prabang.

After 22 km, turn left at the village of Bane Houa Khoua follow the path until you reach a small lake.

Another 3 km further down the road (just after a small bridge), after a corner, leaving the road and take the straight track, which is in fairly good condition.

The track deteriorates somewhat but remains accessible to ordinary vehicle in the dry season.

You will soon be rewarded for your efforts with some nice nature and great views once you reach the top of a large sandstone plateau.

Leave your vehicle near the temple where you can admire a magnificent footprint of Buddha carved into the stone.

Explore the surrounding by walking between and through great slabs of sandstone. Many of them host caves, which are home to some Buddha statues of various sizes and indefinite period.

Continuing your walk eastward, you soon will arrive at the eastern edge of the site that dominates the plain of Vientiane. Weather permitting, you may encounter one of them most superb views over Vientiane, the Mekong River valley and the Nam Ngum reservoir.

The small Wat is been taken care of by one single eremite living there whole year round. Enjoy a tea or some coffee with him.

You may also show him the pictures you took from the area - he might give you some hints what you missed...

Sunrise over the Mekong

2009-11-19T17:05:00.000+07:00

Wat Si Muang - Vientiane's corner stone

2009-11-11T07:53:00.000+07:00

During the monsoon months (April to September), flooding can make it difficult to explore the country side outside of Vientiane capital. It is preferable to conduct tours in and around Vientiane, a visit of Wat Si Muang is particularly suitable.

Wat Si Muang is less known as Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Sisaket, Wat Si Muang nevertheless has a special attraction.

Founded in 1563 under the reign of King Setthathirat it was destroyed by the Siamese in 1828, like most other temples in Vientiane, rebuilt in 1915 and renovated in 1960. Wat Si Muang is currently in good condition and well maintained. The temple is situated at the junction of Samsenthai and Setthathirat road. The statue of King Sisavangvong is in a nearby park just next to the main entrance.

The main attraction of Wat Si Muang however is the presence of a square pillar which perhaps was once part of a former Khmer sanctuary. This pillar became the lak muang or city pillar of Vientiane in 1560. The pillar is inside the sim.

Behind the main sanctuary, one can see a ruined Khmer twin stupa - inhabited by a large stork like bird.

Wat Si Muang plays and important role for the yearly That Luang Festival, held during the month of November.

That Luang Festival - the most important festival in Laos...

2009-11-06T22:48:00.013+07:00

Laos and Vietnam - border checkpoint improved

2009-10-27T15:53:00.001+07:00

The upgraded border checkpoint in the South of Laos' Attapeu province and Vietnam 's Kon Tum province is expected to boost economic growth.

The Lao Phu Keua checkpoint is being constructed with a grant worth US$ 1.6 million from the Vietnamese government.

The checkpoint is scheduled to be fully operational within one year.

The Phu Keua checkpoint is located in the far east of of Attapeu province in the Phouvong district, which is 113 km from the provincial capital. The newly upgraded Phu Keua checkpoint will link with the Vietnamese Bo Y checkpoint.

Before only locals were able to cross the border by using this checkpoint.

It is believed, that the new International checkpoint will contribute to economic grow in the region.

The checkpoint will link the four southern most provinces of Laos (Saravan, Xekong, Attapeu and Champassak) with Vietnam and thus facilitate the transportation of good between the two countries .

Last the Phu Keua checkpoint serves as part of the east-west economic corridor not only Laos, but also Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam.

Sunset over the Mekong

2009-10-17T16:59:00.001+07:00

Wat Phu Thok - “Isaan's Stairway to Heaven”

2009-10-11T15:05:00.001+07:00

One of the most compelling and interesting destinations in the region to the east east of Nong Khai is the hilltop meditation retreat of Wat Phu Thok. Wat Phu Thok resides near the foot of two massive sandstone outcrops on a plain 35 km to the southeast of Muang Bueng Kan in Nong Khai province. Wat Phu Thok accommodates for fifty or so monks, which live in scattered huts on perches high above breathtaking cliffs on the sandstone mountains. Wat Phu Thok has been turned into a a quite Meditation retreat, famous with locals and foreigners alike.

While driving from Bueng Kan towards Wat Phu Thok, the two sandstone outcrops comes into ones sight long before one gets there. Its impressive red sandstone wall, surrounded by green vegetation and lush forests on the narrow Khorat plateau is most astonishing. While getting closer to the rock, the white lines on its wall across the whole mountain reveal themselves as wooden walkways, constructed in seven connected levels, which represent the seven different stages of enlightenment in the Buddhist belief.

The beautiful garden at the base is reflected in a small lake and houses a marble chedi, which commemorates Phra Ahjan Juen, the founder of Wat Phu Thok. He founded the temple in 1968 and died in a plane crash ten years later on the way to Bangkok.

By following long, sometimes slippery, wooden staircases takes you to the third level. Here the visitor is presented with a choice of two routes which will finally lead to the top. One – the left way is more interesting – as it leads around the rock to the fifth and most important level of the Wat Phu Thok complex, where temple's main Buddha statue is housed in the Sala Yai in a dimly lit small cavern.

The artificial ledges, which are built into the rock and across the northeastern face are not for the fainthearted, as crossing these bridges gives the feeling of walking into the air...But they will lead you finally to the dramatic northwestern end of the level five. Here a deep crevice can be crossed by using a wooden bridge which was constructed by monks to connect to the open-sided Buddha viharn.

This spot allows for most stunning views over a broad sweep of the Isaan countryside and across to the second, uninhabited sandstone outcrop. The flat top of the hill forms the seventh level, where you can wander through overgrown paths and thick forest. Make sure, that you remember where your entrance/exit to the seventh level was, as it is easy to lose the orientation on the dense jungle covered hill top - or one could say to find enlightenment will searching the way back...

The visit with my family to Wat Phu Thok was amongst the best experiences and day trips I ever did.

A great, easy and pleasant journey.

Phra That Renu and the Phu Thai minority

2009-10-05T15:10:00.000+07:00

Nakhon Renu is home to the Phra That Renu and to the Phu Thai minority group, which traditionally settled along the Mekong River and its tributaries. Phu Thai people preserved their unique tradition of the Baci ceremony.

Definition: "Briefly the Baci is a ceremony to celebrate a special event, whether a marriage, a homecoming, a welcome, a birth, or one of the annual festivals. A mother is given a baci after she has recovered form a birth, the sick are given bacis to facilitate a cure, officials are honored by bacis, and novice monks are wished luck with a baci before entering the temple. The Baci ceremony can take place any day of the week and all year long, preferably before noon or before sunset. [...]”. (Lao Heritage Foundation)

Phra That Renu is located within the compound of Wat That Renu. The 35 meter high That Renu is an imitation of the famous Phra That Phanom, which is located further south along the Mekong River. From Phra That Renu to Phra That Phanom it is approximately 40 km. Phra That Renu was built in 1918. The stupa itself houses the Buddhist Tipitaka - the three divisions of the Buddhist Canon, consisting of gold and silver Buddha images, some other precious items and regalia of local noblemen.

Wat That Renu can be reached from highway 212, and the following the road 2105 for another 7 kilometers.

Wat Phra That Phanom (วัดพระธาตุพนม)

2009-10-01T10:33:00.000+07:00

Wat Phra That Phanom (วัดพระธาตุพนม) is a sacred chedi, located in a small village with the same name on the border of the Mekong River, in the southern part of Nakhon Phanom Province, northeastern Thailand or

better known as Isaan. The temple is around a kilometer from the banks of the mighty Mekong River located on a small sacred hill called Phu Kamphra.

According to legends the That Phanom chedi contains Lord Buddha's breast bone (Urangkha That). With this relic, the Phra That Phanom chedi is one of the most important Theravada Buddhist structures in the upper Isaan region and much revered by Isaan and Lao people alike.

In the tradition of Theravada Buddhism of Sri Lanka, Burma and Thailand it is commonly believed that Lord Buddha made a journey throughout the whole region to visit sacred and holy sites of earlier Buddha beings and also to support the emerging Buddhist monastic tradition in Southeast Asia. This travel were made by Lord Buddha shortly before his demise. However, no historical evidence profs that such a journey ever took place.

A collection of old manuscripts better known as the Phra That Phanom Chronicles tell that the first shrine was erected shortly after Lord Buddha's death. Scientist and Archaeologists date the earliest structures between the sixth and tenth centuries. While the present form of Wat Phra That Phanom was established by the Lao kings of Vientiane in the fifteenth and sixteenth century.

The main structure of the holy pagoda is constructed on a square bases which is 12 metres wide. The spire is pure gold and weigths 110 kg. The center piece of the pagoda itself is 57m high That. In August 11, 1975 at 7 pm, in a stormy and very rainy night, the chedi collapsed and fell down. Because of its imense importance, funds were raised and the chedi was rebuilt under the supervison of the Fine Arts Department and the support of his Majesty the King of Thailand.

Every year a week long festival is held to honor Wat Phra That Phanom.

Naga Fireballs in Laos and Isaan along the Mekong...

2009-09-29T10:07:00.004+07:00

On the last night of the Buddhist Lent, Naga fireballs (Thai: บั้งไฟพญานาค, bangfai payanak) appearing from the Mekong River's surface, can be seen once a year in Laos and Nong Khai province in Thailand. These glowing fireballs appear from the depth of the River...

The origin of this phenomenon is not clear. Some scientists have proposed that the fireballs are a product of the fermentation of river sediments, which can combust in the Mekong river under certain atmospheric conditions.

A Thai television channel once suggested that tracer fires originating from drunken Lao soldiers are the true cause of this spectacle. Furious protests from local villagers have been the answer. They believe that the
Naga fireballs are produced by a snake-like Guardian spirits of the Mekong River - the Naga or Phaya Naga. These spirits have been living in Laos and Isaans Rivers ever since. This local belief was also supported by a popular Thai newspaper.

However, on the Lao side of the Mekong River, the Naga fireballs can be spotted where Nam Ngum and Mekong River join in Thaprabath District, Bolikhamxay Province, as well as in Pak Ngum District, 60 km east of
Vientiane capital.

In Thailand Isaan region, Phon Pisai in Nong Khai seems to be the most famous and maybe the best place to observe this yearly spectacle on the Mekong River. One has to be early in order to get a good place as this

spectacle is very popular amongst the Lao and the Lao speaking Isaan people.

This might have caused some headache!

2009-09-25T17:13:00.000+07:00

This picture was made in Luang Prabang. The very unfortunate Tuk Tuk driver was actually lucky as he was not hurt by the falling tree parts.

Some big branches of an old tree broke down in a thunder storm.

All this happened near the famouse Wat Xieng Thong temple.

The road along the Mekong River was blocked almost the whole day.

Luang Prabang in Laos

2009-09-15T17:07:00.000+07:00

Luang PrabangThe Ancient town of Luang Prabang, which lies in the center of Laos, has been described as one of the most beautiful and preserved towns in Southeast Asia. In 1512 King Visounarat got Buddha image - the Pha Bang - as a gift from the Khmer monarchy, that is where the town became known as Luang (Great or Royal) Phabang (Prabang). Luang Prabang was the capital of Lane Xang (Laos) for many years until King Phothisarat moved the royal seat to Vientiane in 1545.

There are 34 Buddhist temples among colonial French and Chinese architecture, all nicely located within surrounding green mountains.

The Mekong River, which frames the western border of the town, is still used as transportation link within Vientiane, the capital of Laos, and other important cities along the Mekong River.
Temple Its cultural traditions, rituals and artwork, which includes temple murals, woodcarving and pottery, make Luang Prabang an attractive cultural tourism destination and an ecotourism hub for the whole region, which allows visitors to do hiking, tracking, elephant trekking, kayaking and other adventurous activities in a spectacular natural environment with possibilities which cope for a wide range of interests. The town of Luang Prabang was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995 due to its cultural and natural features. Luang Prabang is accessible by air directly from Bangkok, Vientiane and Chiang Mai, but also overland travel is an option from all directions. There is also a regular boat service on the Mekong River available.

Most of the visitors to Luang Prabang enjoy its cultural and historical heritage, stay in nice renovated Old townguesthouses and small lodges for 20 to 30$ per night. However, there are also quite a few backpackers with an interest in Luang Prabang’s culture as well, but the will also enjoy some more adventurous excursions and day trips to the countryside of the ancient town. Laos is strongly promoted as an ecotourism destination in Asia, whit a lot of interesting national and international ecotourism projects and developments going on. A quick search in Google for “ecotourism” brought up a 150’000 hits and 108’000 hits for “sustainable tourism”.
The amount of visitors tripled within the last 10 years from around 400’000 in 1996 to about 1, 3 Mio in 2006 according to the Lao National Tourism Administration. About 1 Mio of the customers are Asians, where the visitor numbers from Thailand (600’000) is the biggest, followed by Vietnam (170’000) and China with 50’000 old lady in luang prabangvisitors in a year. China has now allowed its citizens to travel more freely to Laos. Therefore, Chinese tourists numbers to Laos are expected to rise and will probably account for 25% of the total number of visitors to Laos in the future. Europeans or Westerners account for about 200’000 tourists.

The pressures on Laos to modernize and develop its tourist infrastructure is rapidly increasing, there is a big demand to cater for an increasing amount of package tourism, which will have a significant impact on the development of Luang Prabang.

Therefore, the inscription of Luang Prabang on the World Heritage List in 1995 happened just at the right time, to preserve the town of Luang Prabang. With new roads being build from Vientiane and the Chinese border, the small town of Luang Prabang was about to rapidly expand and transform it - not an entirely positive development.
monk There is now a strict zoning law, which ensures that the character of the town is preserved by restricting advertising billboards and decreeing that no out-of-character buildings can be constructed, which means, that no photo-finishing shops or fast-food outlets can be opened in the old town. Big tourist buses are not allowed within the old quarter of the town. Luang Prabang promotes eco-friendly tourism in different ways, such as reinforcing the visitors to walk or ride a bicycle to explore Luang Prabang, closing roads to make space for the morning and night markets, and setting and enforcing speed limits within the whole town (quite unique in Asia).

There are very good maps available, which make it a pleasure to walk around to visit the different attractions of the towns. All attractions are also well explained in Laotian, French and English language. There are many good web sites and books, with a lot of useful information on Luang Prabang available, so that the visitors can inform themselves easily. In the town are also some very good local tour guides available, so the cultural interested tourists can get there information from locals as well.

Market In the UNESCO plan, there are three zones: the old quarter, a peripheral zone, and natural zones along the Mekong River. The main problem is now how to maintain Luang Prabang as a World Heritage Site and accommodate the fast growing number of tourists that will be attracted.

The Luang Prabang authorities are handling increased tourism well so far. The plan is not to build new hotels, but rather modify existing mansions for use as hotels. The whole area has a lot of natural attractions within a short distance, such as caves, waterfalls, jungle and rivers and the plan of the Laos authorities is, to further develop sustainable tourism by involving local communities in the over all tourism development of the area, but also to direct some of the tourist to the neighboring attractions to take some pressure of Luang Prabang.
My recommendation is, to raise some of the entrance fees of the attractions for foreign visitors, which may take a little bit pressure of the attractions by reducing the amount of visitors to them. With the so collected money the local authorities would have the choice to renovate some public buildings, such as schools and government buildings, which will further improve the image of the town. Then, there are a few hotel developments well underway about 5 to 10 km outside of the town. I suggest providing some shuttle bus or other public transport to accommodate for the visitors need to go out to town, to prevent them of using private taxis and motorbikes. Then, I think, that the roads of the old quarter should and could be closed during the day time for private traffic to implement a pedestrian zone.

Laos has done a lot to improve its tourism facilities and to make it easier to obtain Visas for tourists, therefore tourism will further grow. Especially, when the fast growing and powerful neighbor China starts to travel, I think, tourism in Laos and basically in the whole region will change dramatically.

Fragrant Flowers in Laos Capital...

2009-09-01T11:58:00.002+07:00

Yesterday in the afternoon I strolled through Vientiane and found a ad from Vientiane Orchids Farm (www.vientianeorchidees.com). The Farm is resides in a lush shaded garden in the northern suburbs of Vientiane. Bertrand Laville, the Technical Director of the Farm and the most knowledgable Orchid Guide in Phou Khao Khouay NP, showed me around and explained me:

In Vietnam there are about a 1'000 known Orchid species, while in Thailand around 900 different species of these flowers can be found; and for Laos an estimated number of 800 Orchids species growing in the country seems in relation to the size of the area as well as the many still intact National Park a reasonable amount.

Around 60% of these orchid species can be seen next to Vientiane in the nearby Phou Khao Khouay National Park. The National University of Laos together with the Vientiane Orchids Farm collects, protects, breeds and classifies these orchids. Together they have a pool of nearly 450 different Orchid species, which can be found in the whole country of Laos. The Orchids are grown on the compound of the Farm and can be visited throughout the week. Bertrand says, that they also support local communities around the Phou Khao Khoay National park in breeding orchids rather than to take them out from the park by collecting them in the nature...

Small guided tours through the farm can be arranged. Bertrand is more than happy to explain in French and English about the flowers, some medicinal plants and their use as well about the polinisation and breeding process of this Orchids. The farm can be reached by tuk tuk...

The Vientiane Orchid Farm also conducts guided field tours to the Phou Khao Khouay Park, where some stoning waterfalls, butterfly licking places and some Khmu villages can be explored and visited. The fees collected for the tours contribute to the local communities: local guides and food is used from the villages and freshly produced and eaten there...

The Orchid trek is easy and can be done by everybody. For up to 4 people Bertrand will take the Orchid Farms' own 4 x 4 Ford Ranger Pickup; for bigger groups a rented van.

A very interesting project in close proximity of downtown Vientiane...

Mekong "Mae Nam Khong" - the Mother Khong

2009-08-23T10:58:00.001+07:00

In Lao or Thai languages the Mekong River is called "Mae Nam Khong". 'Mae' means 'mother' and 'nam' translates as water' in the meaning of 'River'. While the name 'Khong' derives from the Sanskrit word 'ganga', which is the name for India's holy river Ganges. Northern and Northeastern Thais as well as the Lao refer to the Mekong Rivers as the 'Mother River Khong', which literally means "Mother Khong River".

The Mekong River is the world's 10th-longest river and discharges 475 km³/114 cu mi of water annually. The estimated length of the Mekong from the Tibetan Plateau to the Delta in Vietnam is 4,350 km.

Some of the richest and most endangered habitats on Earth can be found in the Greater Mekong area.

The whole region comprises China's Yunnan Province, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam.

This unique and interesting landscape of the Mekong River and its surrounding is home to an estimated 20'000 species of plant, 1'200 different kind of birds, 800 species of amphibians and reptiles, and 430 Mammals rare and endangered species, such as the Asian elephants, tigers and the critically endangered Javan rhinos.

The Mekong River houses at least 1'300 species of fish and in addition the rare Irrawaddy dolphins.

By proportion and length, the Mekong is the richest river if it comes to biodiversity on the planet. There are more species per unit and area than in the Amazon. Many of these species are endemic to the Mekong.

The biodiversity of the Greater Mekong area is of such abundance and importance, that even today new species continue to be discovered and described by science. Only between 1997 and 2007 at least 1'068 new species have been discovered in the Greater Mekong region, this adds up to two new species per week for the past decade.

However, the mighty Mekong River is under serious threat.

Cambodia's, Laos' and Thailand's government are planning eleven big hydro power dams on the Mekong River. If these dams are built along the river, they would block major fish migration ways and disrupt therefore the vitally of the Mekong River.

This however, will place the livelihood of millions of people who life along and depend upon the Mekong River for their food and income at risk.

Sala Keo Ku - a step forward from Wat Xieng Khuan

2009-08-15T17:26:00.006+07:00

Sala Keo Ku is a sculpture park near Nong Khai featuring a fantastic amount of concrete Buddha, Hindu and other statues. The park is in close proximity to the Thai-Lao border.

Sala Keo Ku as well as a similar sculpture park in Laos - Wat Xieng Khuan - have been designed and built by Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat. Wat Xieng Khuan was constructed earlier than Sala Keo Ku, before the revolution through the Pathet Lao in 1975. The revered monk left Laos and built Sala Keo Ku on the Thai side in 1978.

Sala Kao Ku shares therefore the style and fantasy of Sulilat's earlier creation, but it contains even more figures and they are also more extravagant and greater in their design and proportions.

Some of the status rise as high as 25m into the sky. One of those immense sculptures is a monumental depiction Buddha, meditating and protected under a seven-headed Naga. This subject is very common in Buddhist art and can be found throughout all Buddhist countries in various forms and sizes...

The Wat of Sala Keo Ku is a mosque like three-story concrete building, sourounded by snailhouse shaped pilers. The building contains Sulitat's mummified body.

A great place to visit 5 km outside of Nong Khai city. I personally prefer Sala Keo Ku as it is better maintained and also more interesting than Wat Xieng Khuan in Laos...

Wat Xieng Khuan - Vientiane's Buddha Park

2009-08-15T17:15:00.005+07:00

Wat Xieng Khuan - also know as Vientiane's Buddha sculpture park, is about 25 km outside of Vientiane, passing the Friendship bridge for probably 6 km. The park itself is in a small garden and located directly on the banks of the Mekong River opposite Nong Khai in Thailand.

In Lao language Xieng Khuan means Spirit City, however this place is a park and not a Buddhist temple (wat). The park contains around 200 Hindu and Buddhist sculptures.
Wat Xieng Khuan was constructed by Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat in 1958. He was a shaman who was integrating Hinduism and Buddhism traditions. After the communist take over in 1975 he fled to Thailand. Where he built Sala Keo Ku in Nong Khai, a similar sculpture park, but bigger in size.

The bizarre design of the cement made sculptures is quite appealing and interesting... Somehow they give the observer the feeling, that they are century old, which they are obviously not.

There are numerous Buddha and Hindu statues, along with sculptures of humans, gods, animals, and demons. One sculpture which looks like a giant tomato has in the front a face of a daemon. Viewers can enter the sculpture through the giant and widely open mouth. At the top of the tomato shaped figure is a view point where the entire park is visible. The enormous 40 m long reclining Buddha is the other main attraction.

Wat Xieng Khuan is one of Vientiane's better know attractions.

Lao Magic Carpets

2009-08-15T16:50:00.004+07:00

Lao Magic Carpets (www.magiclaocarpets.com) is owned and managed by Ismet from Turkmenistan.

Carpet-making is a very old craft with its roots in Central Asia. Nowadays, carpet-weaving is a big business on a huge commercial scale. Magic Lao Carpets was set up to introduce carpet-weaving in Laos, a country, which is well known for its colorful textile weaving tradition. Ancient Central Asian carpet-making traditions found their way to local Lao weavers, reviving the use of local Silk.

For the time being Lao Magic Carpets Handicrafts focuses on training the weavers, with a clear plan in mind to start village-based carpet production. When this idea will becomes a reality, carpet-making can become a source of good income for many communities and its people, especially for villagers, which most of them do have some spare time in-between their rice planting and harvesting cycles.

It was very interesting to observe the show room and the workshop. Ismet told me a lot about silk, the technique of weaving and knotting carpets, about Laos and its people - his own experience with them. He is a very interesting old man with a very unique life...

Lao Mountain Coffee in Vientiane

2009-08-15T12:04:00.002+07:00

During my last stay in Vientiane I read an interesting article about Lao Mountain coffee and the Jhai Coffee Farmers Cooperative in Stay another day.

Lao Mountain Coffee (www.laomountaincoffee.com) is a Vientiane based coffee roasting company. They roast some specialty grade coffee from Laos famous coffee growing area in the South, the Bolaven Plateau.

In fact they are the only Fair Trade and organic coffee roasting company in Laos and one of only a few in South East Asia. They have developed a close relationship with the Fair Trade certified farmer group, the Jhai Coffee Farmers Cooperative (www.jhaicafe.com), which resides in Champasak province. The Cooperative runs a tiny little office in Pakse town. Day trips can be arranged to visit the small farms around Pakse town.

Steve Feldschneider (info@laomountain.com), the owner, invited me to visit Lao Mountain coffee, which is located in Ban Nongbone in Vientiane capital and only 200 meters away from the That Luang Stupa.

Upon my arrival at the Lao style Villa a nice breeze of freshly roasted and grounded coffee leaded me directly to the heart of the Lao Mountain Coffee company.

Steve welcomed me and gave me a brief overview of Laos coffee producing history. He also explained me about the roasting process and their special way to produce small amounts of coffee on order. Using small amounts of coffee at a time gives them the possibility to control the grade of roasting and the mixture of different coffee beans to a much better extend than in an ordinary coffee roasting company.

The fact that he has such well known names amongst his clients as Residence Phou Vao, Maison Souvannaphoum in Luang Prabang or the world famous Oriental hotel in Bangkok proves his roasting philosophy true.

Towards the end of my visit Steve told me about the cupping process. Cupping is the art of coffee tasting. Coffee consists of more than 800 different aromatic compounds, so coffee cupping is one of the most complex sensory experiences one can do.

Coffee beans from different growing areas, unwashed and washed, roasted and grounded are provided along with a professional instruction about coffee cupping.

Of course , there are also some cafe tables in the lush garden around the Villa, where a freshly roasted and grounded coffee can be tasted after a visit in the nearby That Luang Stupa.

The coffee cupping experience can be arranged for visitor upon prior notice. The program consists of the coffee cupping experience, the tour through the Villa’s compound, including the roasting and manufacturing areas of the company. Visitor can also get some hands on roasting and grounding experience.

Although the price of the coffee cupping program is a bit high - there is lots of fresh coffee and unique experiences involved, which one hardly can get elsewhere and for less money.

Needless to say that once Steve found out that I have a favour for Italian style coffee he offered me a special blend, which he prepared by himself. Well… Another story from Laos…

Phatoke Lauderm

2009-08-15T11:50:00.001+07:00

I spent a beautiful evening at a place called Phaotoke Laoderm (www.phatokelaoderm.com) and enjoyed a nice Lao show (traditional dancing performances and music) together with some Lao meal (sticky rice, sea weed, chicken, keang som paa, naam pic with lots of vegs…).
The meal was great and very tasty and served around 7.30 pm on a big bamboo table like furniture called phatoke. The beerlao was served cold and with some ice cubes…

The performance consists of some classical royal dance pieces, such as the Hanuman monkey dance, and some very rural dances. They also showed some Hmong dance.

The costumes very very colorful and the performers had some great fun to show their skills to the rather small audience.

The Phatoke Lauderm is located within the Senglao hotel complex on the basement. The Hall is very nicely decorated and the staff is friendly, plentiful and very service minded. The place opened a month ago.

The price of 15 $ is for the entrance and for the meal. Drinks are extra.