Finding the true Northeast

Great article in Bangkok Post - Finding the true Northeast, introducing some of Thailand's most serene and unknown heritage, natural wonders and high lights: Phimai Historical Park, Khon Kaen and Bueng Kan prvince' Wat Phu Thok and Udon Thani. Most people know Bangkok, Thailand's islands or Chiang Mai in the North, few have been exploring the more rural, laid back and relaxed Northeast, also know as Isaan, an area full of history with an abundant flora and fauna, well worth while to travel and experience.

Enjoy!

Wat Pa Khiri Wan Santi Tham วัดป่าคีรีวันสันติธรรม (วัดภูเม็ง)

Wat Pa Khiri Wan Santitham is a small Buddhist monastery in Thailand's Khon Kaen province Nong Ruea District. The monastery is beautifully situated at the foot of a small mountain range bordering Chaiyaphum province and located nearby a small water body. Only 5 monks live and mediate here permanently.

Be it ever so humble, there is no place quite like Isaan

Excellent article from Bangkok Post by Suthon Sukphisit about Isaan's environement and its resulting food staple and culture...

Battle for Preah Vihear resumes at The Hague

The final chapter of Thailand and Cambodia's 51-year battle for Preah Vihear temple...

Wikipedia:
Background Information on Preah Vihear temple

UNESCO:
World Heritage Listing and related information on Temple of Preah Vihear

International Court of Justice:
Protocols, hearings and documents on Temple of Preah Vihear (Cambodia v. Thailand)

Bangkok Post:
Local news in Thailand
International Court resumes temple hearing Monday
Cambodia, Thailand begin argument before ICJ on disputed area near Preah Vihear
Thailand 'stoked' border conflict
Thailand: Cambodia has an agenda
ICJ's verdict owed respect
Cambodia accused of lies
Thailand warns ICJ about temple map
Poll: People concerned on border war
No Conclusion over Preah Vihear

The Diplomat:
Preah Vihear temple: Redrawing Jungle lines

BBC:
Preah Vihear temple: UN court hears Thai-Cambodia disput

Next stop Khon Kaen

Recently I had the chance to make a stop over in Khon Kaen and spend one night in this beautiful town in the middle of Thailand's Northeast. Khon Kaen is located some 400 kilometres northeast of Bangkok in the middle of the Korat plateau. Khon Kaen is the regional Hub for Finance, Transportation and Education. The regional Silk trade as well as agriculture are important industries in this Isaan city.

Khon Kaen is one of Thailand's major cities under its National Economic and Social Plan. Khon Kaen is home to two important educational institutions: Rajamangala University and Khon Kaen University, which makes Khon Kaen the largest university town in the Northeast.

Khon Kaen Airport raised to international standards in 2005, with the opening of a new terminal. TG, Thai Airways International, operates for flights a day between Khon Kaen and Bangkok. Used to Suvarnnabhumi International Airport in Bangkok, Khon Kaen's airport appears to be sleepy and laid-back. Never the less, the service I experienced was of high quality and the airport is small but tidy. Two Black Canyon coffees, a few small shops and a tiny TG lounge make the time pass by quickly.

Khon Kaen city is nestled around the northeastern Highway known as Mithraphap Road ('Friendship Highway' or 'Highway 2'). This road road links Bangkok to the northeastern Isaan provinces and to the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge, which extends to Vientiane in Laos.

Greenleaf Hydrofarm & Restaurant
Greenleaf is located on the small road linking the city of Khon Kaen to its airport. The restaurant offers a great mix of healthy Thai and Western fusion food and seems to be quite famous among the locals. The selection ranges from typical Thai curries to Mexican tacos, healthy fresh salads and superb steaks. The steaks come in a local, US and Australian version and are prepared as per the cook book. Simply delicious.


Greenleaf Hydrofarm & Restaurant, 17 Airport Road, Khon Kaen, Thailand 40000, (043) 345-565, (086) 862-3423

Rachawadee Resort & Hotel
Close to the airport located is a small, but exquisite example of Thai hospitality: Rachawadee Resort & Hotel. The resort was build in 2007 by the Somjaiwong family who's dream was to bring an oasis of tranquility and fine dining for vacationers and business travelers to their hometown of Khon Kaen. The resort's keystone is its Kinaree Restaurant which has all the popular Isaan dishes and many original creations on offer. The family friendly Rachawadee Resort is situated in a nice and lush garden with swimming pool, close to the airport, ideally positioned to spend some relaxing days in this city.

Rachawadee Resort & Hotel, Khon Kaen Airport Road, Khon Kaen, Thailand 40000, (043) 468-222, info@rachawadeehotel.com

When the Golden Shower Tree blooms - Songkran is around the corner

The Golden Shower tree (cassia fistula) can be found everywhere in Laos and Thailand's northeastern provinces, also know as Isaan. The flowering tree is native to southern and southeastern Asia, from Sri Lanka through India to Myanmar, Laos and Thailand.
The golden shower tree is the national tree of Thailand, and its flower is Thailand's national flower. The yellow flowers symbolize Thai royalty. Thailand's biggest flora exhibition, the Royal Flora Ratchaphruek, was named after the tree. In Thai the Golden Shower tree is called 'dok khoon' or 'ratchaphruek'.

The tree is also a popular ornamental plant and an herbal medicine.

The Golden Shower trees grows to 10-20 metres in size. Isaan's raod are often flanked with this fast growing tree. The flowers are 20-40 centimetres long and each yellow flower is 4-7 in diameter with five equaly sized petals and shape.

The fruit is a legume, 30–60 centimetres long and 1.5–2.5 centimetres broad, similar to a long bean. The fruit contains several seeds which are poisonous.

The Golden Shower tree has a strong and very durable wood.

In April the tree is flowering and turns with its bright yellow color Thais and Lao alike in a good mood - the local new year festival (Lao: Pii Mai, Thai: Songkran) is approaching. The water splashing event is held yearly on the 13th -16th of April.
Sawadee Pii Mai!

5th Thai-Lao bridge plan to be discussed

Plans for construction of a 5th Thai-Lao friendship bridge across the Mekong River, between Bue ng Kan province of Thailand and Paksane town of Bolikhamxay province if Laos, will be raised for discussion when Transport Minister Chadchat Suttipunt visits Laos on Feb 21.

5th Thai-Lao bridge plan to be discussed | Bangkok Post

Northeast Thailand given major tourism boost

The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) is collaborating with travel trade partners to promote the destination by organizing Amazing I-San Fair 2013.

Northeast Thailand given major tourism boost

Mekong River's ecology and its influence on livelihoods

Most small riverside communities along the Mekong River rely on mixed economy of agricultur and fisheries. These two subsistence activities dominate the  live along the river; and are directly linked to the Mekong's ecology.

Families and livelihoods along the river depend on the river and its resources. Families need the income and food generated through activities such as fisheries and gardening. For most people in the Mekong basin, livelihoods are complex, and often include a mixture of employment income, as well as subsistence farming or fishing activities such as growing food or fishing.

The activities undertaken by households vary seasonally. The Mekong River ecology, and in particular the seasonal flood-pulse and the dry season, determines how these activities vary throughout the year. At times rice-farming dominates the activities, while at other times, fishing is more important.

Nong Khai's Naga - a strong symbol and deity of the Mekong River

Guardian deity of the Mekong River and its people. Rooted in many legends and stories from the past, the Naga is still one of the most important symbols of the Lao and Isaan culture.

Lam Thakong Dam

Lam Takhong Dam was constructed in 1974 and is an embankment dam on the Lam Takhong River. 

The dam is situated between Pak Chona and Sikhiu districts in Nakhon Ratchasima province, Isaan.

The dam's purpose was to retain water for irrigation and water supply. After 2002 the stored water also serves as the reservoir for the Lam Takhong Pumped Storage Power Plant, the first plant one of this kind in Thailand.

Along the highway number 2 there are a few restaurants overlooking the dam. They offer typical Isaan food such as gai yang (BBQ chicken), somtam (papaya salad) and all sorts of fish.... of course served with khao nio (sticky rice).

Revered Buddha Phra Serm at Wat Pathumwanaram Rajaworavihara

Wat Pathumwanaram Rajaworavihara (Wat Srapathum ) is situated on Rama I Road in Bangkok, between the Central World Shopping Mall and the Siam Paragon Shopping Center. The Wat was build during the same time as the Srapathum Palace. King Rama IV ordered the construction of the temple as a gift for Queen Thepsirin.

Wat Pathumwanaram houses important Buddha images - the revered Phra Serm and Phra Saen.

Legends say that the three daughters of Setthathirath (*), the King of Lane Xang, commissioned three personal Buddha images. Theses images were believed to reflect the faces of the three daughters of the king. All of them were given names relating to the names of the three princesses, Phra Serm, Phra Souk and Phra Sai.

The three revered Buddha images were originally housed in Vientiane, Laos sleepy capital on the opposite Mekong Riverside, around 20 km of Nong Khai. However, around 200 years ago, the images were brought to Thailand during the invasion of Laos through the troupes of Rama III, King of Siam.

In a stormy night, Phra Souk fell in to the Mekong River while in transit to Nong Khai. The two surviving and remaining Buddha images were placed in Nong Khai's Wat Pho Chai and Wat Ho Klong. King Rama IV ordered, that the image of Phra Serm should be taken to Bangkok.

While Phra Sai was left at Wat Pho Chai in Nong Khai, Phra Serm was placed at Wat Pathumwanaram Rajaworavihara in  Bangkok. A visit to this most revered Buddha is rewarding and interesting alike. Wat Pathumwanaram Rajaworavihara is on the Rama I Road, near Siam Square...

More info: The story of Phra Sai, a much revered Buddha image in Nong Khai

* Setthathirath (Lao: ເສດຖາທິຣາດ; 1534–1572) is one of the greatest leaders and kings in Lao history. He successfully defended the kingdom of Lan Xang against the Burmese conquerors.

Setthathirath erected many Buddhist monuments in Laos and Isaan, including the famous Wat Xieng Thong in Luang Prabang and the Phra That Luang stupa in Vientiane.

Four airlines serve the city-pairs: Thai Airways, Lao Airlines, Lao Central Airline and Bangkok Airways

Bangkok Airways intensifies race on Vientiane route - http://tinyurl.com/axvjcvm

Normal round trip fares between Bangkok and Vientiane cost around 12'000 Baht, or if one wants to fly cheaper and doesn't mind to do some parts of the trip on the road, Thai Air Asia offers several daily flights to Udon Thani. Thai Air Asia offers round trips around 3'500 Baht.

A bus to the border at Nong Khai or even Vientiane is between 200 and 300 Baht... A good, reliable and low cost option...

Ceremony to mark progress on 4th Thai-Lao Friendship bridge

4th Mekong River bridge between Laos and Thailand - Ceremony marks bridge progress : http://tinyurl.com/akj5dce

Northeastern Thai Buddhist Art

The Pullman Hotel G at the Silom Road in Bangkok presents Northeastern Thai Buddhist Art from Songrit Muaiprom. This is the artists first exhibition.


Songrit Muaiprom grew up in Thailand's Northeast also known as Isaan, an arid area with great historical value. This area of Thailand is well known for its welcoming and friendly people.

About the Artist
Songrit Muaiprom as many Thai males was an ordained and practicing Buddhist monk for more than 8 years. When he discovered his talent for arts he decided to choose a path where he could express the cultural heritage of Buddhism. Songrit graduated with a Master’s Degree in Thai Art from Silpakorn University.

You can visit the exhibition, without charge. Located at Gallery 36 on the 36th floor of Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, Silom Road. Open daily from 10:00 – 19:00 hrs.

Controversial dam project in Laos

Laos has approved a controversial dam project to dam the Mekong River near Xayaburi - even though the project has been widely criticized by environmentalists, neighboring countries, especially Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam who fear that the dam will negatively affect downstream riverside communities and their livelihoods.

Laos project is the first one to dam the lower Mekong River. China put already 4 dams in place in the upper Mekong River area.

There are 10 more dams planned so far on the lower Mekong River basin. The Mekong River is Southeast Asia's longest river and a rich source of fish, a cultural inspiration, way of transportation and source of life.

My own blog entries on the Mekong River:
Nong Khai's aquarium - a closup look at the Mekong River fish
Going Upriver and Back in Time in Laos
Mekong Sunset... in Pak Khat
Khonephapheng waterfall in Southern Laos Sipandone area
Lush river life... some impressions...
Mekong Sunset... Luang Prabang
Mekong River bank erosion in Vientiane
Sunrise over the Mekong
Naga Fireballs in Laos and Isaan along the Mekong...
Mekong "Mae Nam Khong" - the Mother Khong

Article on Bangkok Post from 06/11/2012

Buriram back on Nok Air's flight map

During last year's flooding of parts of Bangkok and Don Mueang Airport Nok Air stopped its services to Buriram. Nok Air announced that they will start again to operate 3 flights a week (Wednesday, Friday and Sunday).

Other destinations in Isaan operated by Nok Air are:
Nakhon Phanom, Mukdahan, Roi Et, Sakon Nakhon, Udon Thani, Ubon Ratchathani

Nok Air operates also flights to Vientiane, Lao PDR capital.

For more information on Nok Air's schedule and to book flights, please go to www.nokair.com

Som tam - Thailand's Green papaya salad

Spicy green papaya salad or "som tam" is a typical Isaan or northeaster Thai dish - loved by locals for its delicious, refreshing spiciness. The dish is well know in neighboring Laos as 'tam mak hoong' and as 'bok l'hong' in Cambodia. 

Som Tam is listed as number 6 on World's 50 most delicious foods complied by CNN Go in 2011.


The spicy green papaya salad combines all for different tastes - sour (lime), spicy (dired chili), salty (fermented fish sauce) and sweetness (sugar and sometimes fruits).

All ingredients are chopped in pieces and added to a mortar where they are pounded and mixed - "som tam" translates as "sour pounded" while the Lao and Khmer name translates into pounded papaya.

As green papaya is used for the dish, the overall taste is rather sour than sweet with a lovely crispy and crunchy texture - a dish like heaven in the tropical climate of Southeast Asia...

It is not uncommon to be asked or offered to try a little in order to prepare the dish to your liking. While in central Thailand locals referred to the salad as "som tam Thai" or "som tam" in Laos or Isaan people use the term Lao. But careful - unlike "som tam Thai" - "som tam Lao or tam mak hoong" comes with an additional ingredient - fermented fish sauce - a taste of its own.

True lovers would not dare to eat this salad without fermented fish sauce, but for beginners the taste might be  strong and take a while to get familiar with to say the least...

While in Bangkok's restaurants customers will usually get "som tam Thai", in Bangkok's road it is better to expects it's Lao/Isaan variation - usually prepared by immigrants from upcountry. This traditional Lao/Isaan style green papaya salad is a good as it can get. Beware of chili's! Expect lots of them...

Ingredients:

• the most important one : fresh, raw and green papaya

Add to the papaya slices some or most of the following items, make sure you pound them well:

• Chili
• Sugar (traditionally palm sugar)
• Garlic
• Lime
• Fish sauce
• Crabs
• Shrimp paste
• Pla ra / padaek (fermented fish sauce)
• Tomatoes
• Yardlong beans
• Hog Plums
• Raw Thai eggplant

Bueng Kan connected - 5th Mekong bridge planned

Bung Kan will get connected to Laos Bolikhamsay province through a 1.5 kilometre, 1.5 billion baht Friendship bridge..

According to Bung Kan's Governor Pornsak Jearanai, should the construction of the bridge begin within the next three years. "The Thai cabinet has approved the project and the governments of both countries have agreed in principle to have the fifth bridge built."

The 5th Friendship bridge will be built about 12 km east of the center of Buneg Kan and will link the province with the capital of Bolikhamxay Paksan.

It is expected, that once the bridge is open trade will increase between the two countries from the present 5.4 billon baht to some 24 billion baht. This would be a similar level as the trade volume of the 1st Thai - Lao Friendship bridge in Nong Khai and Vientiane.

The Bung Kan Friendship bridge will shorten the traveling distance from Thailand to Vietnam considerably, thus also boost cross border, holiday and business traffic between the three countries: Thailand, Laos and Vietnam.

This will allow Bung Kan to become a bridge head into Indochina and Chine.

Other Friendship bridges are:

• 1st Thai - Lao Friendship bridge: Nong Khai (TH) - Vientiane (LAO), 1'170m (0.73 mi) long, the bridge has two lanes, two footpaths and a single 1,000 mm (3 ft 3 ³⁄₈ in) gauge railway line in the middle of the bridge.
   
• 2nd  Thai - Lao Friendship bridge: Mukdahan (TH) - Savannakhet (LAO), 1'600 meters (1.0 mi) long and 12 meters (39 ft) wide, with two traffic lanes.
  
• 3rd Thai - Lao Friendship bridge: Nakhon Phanom (TH) - Thakhek (LAO), 1'423 m long and 13 m wide.
  
• 4th Thai - Lao Friendship bridge: Chiang Khong (TH) - Houay Xay (LAO), proposed bridge...

Stay in Style - The One Hotel in Bueng Kan

During the yearly renewal of my Visa Extension I had the opportunity to stay at The One hotel - Muang Bueng Kan's most recent hotel addition.

The five-story hotel offers 74 superior and deluxe rooms along with 5 The One Suites, right at the entrance of the town, close to the new Tesco Lotus shopping mall and the City Hall of Bueng Kan.

The brand new modern rooms are spacious, bright and nicely decorated and offer all required amenities. The One Hotel has a restaurant, fitness center, meeting facilities, pool, poolside bar and garden.

The One Hotel is an ideal place to stay while in Bueng Kan.


The One hotel is at 59 moo1 Bueng Kan - Nakhon Phanom Rd., Bueng Kan, Muang Bueng Kan, Bueng Kan, Thailand 38000